Yvonne Lorkin: Good excuse for boys to meet up

Mark Dixon (left), Sean Burns, Nigel Mannering, Duncan Gourley, Terry Harker, Tony Clifford, Hamish Frame and Marty Lee.

Once upon a time, back in 2006, four self-described "school dads from Napier hill" got together to form a club. "It was while we were celebrating my son Max's 4th birthday," says founding member Allister Bathgate. "The dads were relaxing on the lawn when the subject of our wives bookclub came up. We were left alone once a month while our partners went out for an evening of conversation and wine with their friends."

One wine industry dad mooted the idea of the hubbies also getting together once a month, but they needed a proper, grown-up reason. And thus a wine club was born. 'Twas a very special and wondrous gathering of like-minded menfolk who worked hard, had war stories to tell, and all enjoyed a good glass of wine.

Each month, the host would pick four red and four white wines and a blind tasting would be held. There would be much multiple-choice guessing and fierce swirling, sniffing, slurping followed by (not much) spitting.

"We call ourselves the Philistines Wine Appreciation Society," says long-time member Tony Clifford, "in deference to our ability to judge wine."

The Napier hill location was carefully considered as it meant that most of the men's homes were within walking distance after tasting events. "The early days resulted in some late nights and foggy mornings; we were getting a bit of a reputation," shrugs Tony, "but we've toned it down in the last couple of years."

Today, each Philistines' meeting comprises eight core members in their late 40s to mid 50s, hailing from all manner of backgrounds. "Sales guys, builders, plumbers, engineers, IT, finance, hospitality and teaching etc. It's the diversity that makes our group interesting." Their society is now a strong social network that even makes its own red wine. Having a vineyard manager on the team meant easier access to a vineyard, laboratory, gear hire and skills with chemistry.

"We handpick the fruit after the harvesters have been through to grab all the bunches left hanging around the strainer posts that the machines miss," Tony says.

"With the help of the kids and partners we manage to pick a pretty manky couple of tons of grapes over four to five hours on a weekend."

Stalks are removed using a bin and chicken wire, before the berries are foot-stomped and everything is poured into an old milk vat to ferment for about three weeks, with someone plunging the cap twice a day to extract colour and tannin. "Then we syphon and press the wine off its skins and into two barrels, where it matures for around 12 months -- then we bottle it."

Those two barrels produce about 660 bottles. "We only make merlot because that's what we have access to," says Tony, "but we sometimes add a bit of malbec for colour, plus anything else red that's available on the day."

Membership criteria for prospective Philistines include having a healthy appreciation of good wine and good friends.

"Over eight years we've enjoyed many special occasions together, we've also branched out to scotch and craft beer appreciation and we've even entered adventure races together."

The 10-year plan is that a Philistines bottle sticker will be as well respected as Cuisine or Air NZ Awards, says Allister. The Philistines have two full barrels of 2014 vintage to bottle and 500 litres of 2015 juice has just gone through primary ferment.

But how do they taste? "The Merlot 2013 is pretty good, but the 2012 was a bit dry and often relegated to spag bol sauce. But it's generally agreed that at some stage we've all purchased much worse examples than we've made."

SIPS OF THE WEEK

Matariki Quintology 2009, $80

After a few years in the bottle, this Gimblett Gravels-grown blend of merlot, malbec and syrah, and cabernets sauvignon and franc is really hitting its straps. With sexy, exotic aromas of ripe blackberry and sweet plum smashed into seasoned saddle leather and a sprinkle of dried herbs, violets, bitter chocolate and white pepper, it's more than a delicious wine, it's an experience. www.matarikiwines.co.nz

Toi Toi Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2014, $18

If you like your sauvignon packed with passionfruit, lime, basil, pea pod and peach flavours then you'd best get online and order this pronto. Uncomplicated, fresh, zingy and superb with steamed mussels - what more do you need? www.toitoiwines.co.nz

Golden Eagle 'The Bitter End' Special Bitter 500ml, 4.4 per cent $8

Crafted by Christchurch brewer David Gaughan, this is a powerful, biscuity beer with great freshness in the mid-palate, lifted roasting coffee bean characters and a cleansing, bitter finish. Solid.

beercellar.co.nz