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Home / Hawkes Bay Today / Lifestyle

Yvonne Lorkin: Classy team captures taste of region

By Yvonne Lorkin
NZME. regionals·
26 Dec, 2014 04:00 PM4 mins to read

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Winemaker Tony Southgate, vineyard manager Dale Springer and owners Valley and Garry Neale of Brightwater Vineyards.

Winemaker Tony Southgate, vineyard manager Dale Springer and owners Valley and Garry Neale of Brightwater Vineyards.

I've been writing about wine for almost 12 years and that's about how long I've been drinking Brightwater wines.

But do you think I've been able to get to their vineyard in all that time?

Thankfully, I was able to descend on Gary and Valley Neale to sample a rockin' vertical selection of their riesling and Lord Rutherford Barrique chardonnay. It was the perfect way to cap off a group visit to Nelson last month with the Wine Writers of New Zealand.

Winemaker Tony Southgate was on hand to talk me through the wines, which started a while back with the Brightwater riesling 2006, which had bright, rich fruit on the palate, a vein of mealy kero characters showing through, followed by a solid length of flavour.

Hardly surprising that this wine went on to win the trophy at the Liquorland Top 100 Awards.

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The Brightwater riesling 2009 has bright lime and rose apple notes on the nose, and is packed with bold citrus and a tangy, taut mouthfeel. The 2012 version was a gold medal-winner at the Air New Zealand and Bragato wine awards.

This was interesting as it was a cooler year and more mineral-driven elements were showing through. I really enjoyed the 2014, with its 11.5 per cent alcohol and 16g/litre residual sugar giving it an intense mandarin and tangelo tang. The acidity was tightly coiled but there's clearly a bright future ahead for that wine.

I make no apologies for being an absolute chardonnay slapper, so I was understandably fizzing at the bung at the thought of tasting six vintages of Gary and Valley's Lord Rutherford Barrique chardonnay. The 2012 was recently awarded the Colin Harrison Memorial Trophy for Nelson's best chardonnay.

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Colin Harrison was a big supporter of Nelson wine and founded the Taste Nelson Food and Wine Festival, which he organised and ran until his death in 2001. The memorial trophy was created that year.

At the first sip, the 2007 Brightwater Lord Rutherford Barrique chardonnay develops nutty, brulee and toasty butterscotch characters on the nose and palate, but still retains bright, fresh acidity on the finish.

The 2008 is beautifully aromatic with cashew characters on the nose, followed by an intensely juicy, complex biscuit palate.

It was drinking darn nicely indeed.

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The 2009 is definitely more on the peach and citrus spectrum, showing fresh, lemony lines and an elegant mouthfeel - aspects that clearly helped it win champion wine at the 2012 Royal Easter Show.

At about this point a heavy hush came over the room because everyone knew that we were experiencing something really special - the 2010 vintage had succulent, roast peach characters on the nose and a juicy, generously tropical flavour spectrum with beautiful energy and presence on the finish, while the 2012 was my favourite of the bunch.

In fact, I've even gone so far as to give it a formal review (see below).

When Tony, Gary and Valley choose to release the 2013 it will be high on my list of "must-trys" because it's already heaving with mouth-watering spices, grilled grapefruit, pineapple, peach and butterscotch and all sorts of gloriousness.

Clearly when it comes to riesling and chardonnay the Brightwater team have got some classy fruit at their disposal.

"We have a fantastic team of pickers who come every year," says Valley.

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"They're super dedicated and experienced with our fruit. They're amazing. They know what we want."

As if that wasn't enough, Valley and the team had rustled up an enormous platter of local cheeses, salmon blinis and fresh fruit - and then we got to take home chocolates!

Wine writing - it's a tough job.

SIPS OF THE WEEK

Brightwater Vineyards Riesling 2014, $20

This year was kind to the Brightwater kids and this is reflected in this racy, lean, lipsmacking example. Loads of lemon, lime, tangelo and green apple loveliness greet the nose and palate, leaving behind a tangy mouthfeel. brightwaterwine.co.nz

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Kereru Brewing Karengose Salty Seaweed Ale 4% ($55 doz)

Kereru Brewing have embraced their inner salty seadog by brewing fronds of Karengo (an edible purple seaweed common around Kaikoura) in a Gose (Go-Sah) or German Wheat Beer brewed with salted water. It's briny, slightly sour and richly structured. kererubrewing.co.nz

Lawson's Dry Hills Marlborough Chardonnay 2014, $18

Marlborough manages to produce some seriously good chardonnay - and this is a top value example. Juicy white peach, a sneaky vein of grapefruit, custard apple and soft, tropical tastiness is what you'll find in this new release. lawsonsdryhills.co.nz

Matua Single Vineyard Hawke's Bay Albarino 2014, $30

Albarino is a Spanish white variety that I'm rapidly falling in love with, as Kiwi producers create sensational local examples. With white peach, white pepper and apricot aromas followed by citrus notes in the mouth, this is delicious. glengarrywines.co.nz

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