- Helen Masters - head winemaker Ata Rangi, Martinborough
"Last year I was after a puppy ... check. This year, I'm looking forward to completing my new winemaking facility at the GR vineyard in time for vintage (that's a Christmas present for me AND the grapes). That's exciting.
"I'm also hoping for some decent weather to round out the season and ripen what is likely to be a small crop due to early frost issues across Waipara this year. My eternal hope is that Kiwis will wake up to fact that riesling is the complete package as opposed to sauv b.
"Lastly, I predict and wish for a real local surge for Kiwi syrah, the continued growth, recognition and development of Waipara, the rise of gewurztraminer, a toehold for Georges Road in Australia, and anything else that can smooth the ride of all us smaller fish as we try to swim in the big pool. Cheers and drink well!" - Kirk Bray, owner/winemaker Georges Road Wines, Waipara.
"I'm looking forward to drifting sleepily downstream in my Canadian canoe, fly rod in hand, sipping on a crisp white in the shade of a willow and the smell of smoking trout in the air, blissfully unaware that the world's climate is on the precipice of irreversible collapse." - Lance Redgwell, owner/winemaker, Cambridge Road Wines, Martinborough
"We'd wish to triple our income and have stunning weather for grapes, not ducks, AND recognition of Central HB as a [wine] destination". - Rosie Butler and Rodger Tynan, Lime Rock Wines, Tikokino
Shiraz flavours Wynn
After 22 vintages making wine for Wynns Coonawarra Estate, Sue Hodder is, despite Coonawarra being serious cabernet country, very seriously excited about shiraz. "Yeah. So while the region is famous for cabernet sauvignon, shiraz features much in its early history and indeed the oldest vines planted here [were] shiraz," she says, perched on a stool at Ostro bar, in Auckland, opening bottles of her new-release wines.
In 1891, Scottish pioneer John Riddoch planted vineyards on the cigar-shaped strip of red dirt now known as the terra rossa soils of Coonawarra in South Australia. He also began work on the landmark triple-gabled winery, which was renamed Wynns when David Wynn bought the property in 1951. Shiraz was part of the selection of grapes that Riddoch planted and, even today, some of the only vines remaining in Coonawarra from that time are shiraz.
"Shiraz was, up until 1994, called hermitage," says Sue, "and there's something about Coonawarra that produces shiraz with real longevity. Those older hermitage wines are ageing beautifully and, even now, a lot of people are still cellaring Coonawarra shiraz.
"I guess because the region does such a spectacular job of promoting its ability to produce exceptional cabernet sauvignon, I've been guilty of forgetting that Coonawarra can also churn out some superb shiraz. It's the same syndrome that Marlborough suffers when it comes to chardonnay. People forget the region's not a one-trick pony.
"We describe our shiraz as being medium-bodied, with a spicy note. We think it's important that shiraz is expressive and spicy. It needs to have ripe tannins and good mid-palate flavour and ultimately be age-worthy.
"One of the characteristics of the Black Label is that it has good concentration at moderate alcohol. It's quite a rich style for a 13.3 per cent alcohol wine.
"The Black Label shiraz is new; it's only our second vintage and it was a big decision to make this wine because, for years, we've said (and it's true) the Black Label cabernet was our most important wine. But oh, by the way, here we are now with a shiraz.
"I'd sort of resisted it for years because I don't like range extensions but ... we did have a large area of old shiraz we weren't really putting anywhere.
"Our shiraz is generally grown on the well-drained, eastern side of the terra rossa - and we've got this amazing viticulturist, Allen Jenkins, an ex-Roseworthy horticultural tutor who's really whipped our vineyards into shape, and he loves the older vines.
"Vine age makes a huge difference. The vines, which provide fruit for the Black Label, must be at least 35 years old before they'll be considered.
"In reality, even in the affordable Estate shiraz, there's fruit from vines that could be anywhere from 11 to 100 years old."
Wynns also have another, far more expensive shiraz called Michael. At $100 a bottle, it's named after David Wynn's son and was first released in 1955. "We only release Michael in absolutely exceptional years so there will eventually be a release of the 2012 and it'll be just fantastic."
SIPS OF THE WEEK
Wynns Coonawarra Shiraz 2012, $18
How crazy is it that this is the 60th vintage of this wine. I feel like it's always been around, like a trusted old friend.
But 60 years? Amazing. Made from vines ranging in age from a bright, shiny 11-year-olds to gnarly 100-year-old plants, this new vintage has bright floral, eucalypt and spice aromatics, hints of cocoa and fruitcake on the palate.
And it has a leathery, cedar-like length.
glengarrywines.co.nz
Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Shiraz 2012, $36
The shiraz vines must be at least 35 years old to qualify for a shot at being considered for this, second release of the Black Label shiraz. With concentrated fresh red fruits and tannins with a good amount of chew, this is an elegant, lengthy, nicely poised wine. It has lushness in the mid palate, pepper, cigar box and baking spice characters and gorgeous persistence of flavour.
glengarrywines.co.nz
