White Island shows its colours

White Island.

Possibly the greatest jewel in the Bay of Plenty's tourism crown is White Island.

It is New Zealand's only marine volcano and is the most active geothermal vent in the country.

But it is often out-of-sight, out-of-mind for many and this is a shame because the journey out to explore White Island is a remarkable experience.

The sight of a steaming, bubbling crater lake is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

White Island sits some 49km off the pretty town of Whakatane on the country's east coast and is a 90-minute boat ride out into the Pacific.

The journey out is weather dependent, but not because of a worry about large waves - as the White Island Tours boat PeeJay IV can handle most conditions.

Rather, the size of the swell dictates what happens at the other end as you go by inflatable boat to the island itself. If the waves are too big then you can't land.

Before you disembark the PeeJay IV you are given a hard hat and gas mask. The former in case there is an explosion that could biff rocks about, the latter to save your throat from the irritating effects of sulphurous gases.

From the inflatable you need to climb up rusty, but solid, ladders to an ancient jetty, then cross a metal plank to the rocks you need to clamber over to reach the beach.

If you doubt the solidity of the ladders don't worry. They took my 110kg frame and a 10kg camera bag without the slightest movement.

Once on the beach you get safety instructions and then you set off on a fascinating journey.

And mark my words, your friends and relatives will be quite jealous that you are walking within a live volcano!

Along the way our guides (one in front, one at the rear) talk about key aspects of White Island.

The island is astounding. There are bright yellow and orange blooms of sulphur crystals, gurgling fumeroles, huge clouds of egg-pongy steam and wonderful colours and shapes of the moon-like landscape.

There are bright yellow and orange blooms of sulphur crystals, gurgling fumeroles, huge clouds of egg-pongy steam and wonderful colours and shapes of the moon-like landscape.

There are pinks and browns and greys, yellows, reds, oranges and all stand out vibrantly.

One of the eye-catching sights is a double gap of land that allows you to see the dark blue of the sea against the sky.

Incredible, you think, until you realise the gaps used to be the walls of the island's crater that were blown out by a massive explosion.

Where are the guides? And is my yellow helmet on securely enough?

Honestly, the last thing you worry about on the island is an event, you are just so entranced by the occasion.

But that doesn't mean you are silly. You must keep close together and listen to the advice the guides are giving. If something happens, they know what to do.

The sight of a steaming, bubbling crater lake is a once-in-a-lifetime experience and tasting volcanic stream water - twice - is interesting, if not exactly the nicest drop you'll ever try. But, hey, you have to do it.

And that's what I think about getting out to White island. It is something you just have to do.

- Richard Moore is a travel writer and photographer. He owns the online travel guide TikiTouring.co.nz.