Jan Bilton: Taste of Italy

Squid braised with anchovies.

Make your friends an offer they can't refuse. Impress them with 'bellissimo' Italian dishes. Of course there is one possible disadvantage - you could be inundated with repeat requests. For Italians, cooking and sharing food is the essence of life, whether it is at home with friends, in a humble trattoria or at a fine-dining restaurant.

SQUID BRAISED WITH ANCHOVIES

To make it tender-as, squid can be cooked in two ways: quickly - for 1-2 minutes; or on low heat for about an hour. This recipe uses the latter method. The flavours are mellow and delish.

INGREDIENTS

large pinch saffron threads
3 Tbsp hot water
5-6 medium squid tubes (thawed, if frozen)
3 Tbsp olive oil
1 each: large shallot, green capsicum, diced
4 each: sprigs thyme, garlic cloves, thinly sliced
6 anchovies, chopped
3/4 cup white wine
11/2 cups frozen peas

METHOD

Soak the saffron in the hot water for 30 minutes.

Cut the squid tubes into 1.5cm rings. Pat dry.

Heat the oil in a deep frying pan on medium. Pan-fry the shallot, capsicum, thyme, garlic and anchovies for about 5 minutes. Add the wine. Boil for 5 minutes.

Add the saffron and squid. Cover and simmer on low heat for 1 hour. Add a little fish stock if too dry. Add the peas and simmer for 5 minutes.

Great served with crusty bread to mop up the liquid. - Serves 4

RICOTTA CHEESE & SPINACH STUFFED CREPE

My inspiration for this delight came from the Italian chefs aboard the Oceania Insignia. I recently enjoyed a similar crepe for lunch while the ship was in port Auckland.

INGREDIENTS

Crepes: 3 eggs
2 Tbsp plain flour
1 Tbsp each: water, milk
pinch salt
25g butter
Filling: 350g packet frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed dry
1 1/2 cups ricotta cheese
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
pinch grated nutmeg
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese
100g mozzarella, shredded
Sauce: 3-4 cups good pasta sauce
1/4 tsp chilli flakes
1/4 cup chopped parsley

METHOD

To prepare the crepes, whisk the eggs, flour, water, milk and salt until well combined. Stand for 3 hours, or overnight.

Melt a little butter in a 16cm crepe pan on lowish heat. Pour in enough batter - about 2 tablespoons - to make a thin layer on the base. Cook until just coloured. Flip the crepe over and cook the other side.

Stack the crepes with waxed paper in between. These can be prepared well ahead and frozen if necessary. Makes 8.

Combine the spinach with the ricotta in a bowl. Season then add the nutmeg, egg, parmesan and a 1/2 cup of mozzarella.

Bring the pasta sauce, chilli flakes and parsley to the boil.

To bake, place a cup of the pasta sauce in the base of a lightly oiled baking dish, about 24cm x 18cm.

Place a 1/4 cup of the ricotta mixture on one crepe and roll up. Place seam-side down in the baking dish. Repeat with the remaining crepes and filling. Spoon the remaining pasta sauce on top and sprinkle with the remaining mozzarella.

Preheat the oven to 180C. Cover loosely with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for 5 minutes more - Serves 4

POTATO GNOCCHI

Aaah, gnocchi! Named for the Italian baroque composer, Pietro Gnocchi, these little soft dumplings are one of my faves.

INGREDIENTS

500g Agria potatoes, washed, skins on
1 small egg
1/4 cup finely grated parmesan cheese
pinch ground nutmeg
1/2 tsp salt
1/2-3/4 cup plain flour

METHOD

To prepare the gnocchi, place the potatoes in a heavy-based saucepan. Cover with cold water. Bring to the boil then simmer gently until the potatoes are just cooked, about 20 minutes.

Drain the potatoes and peel while still hot. Mash the potatoes, preferably using a mouli. Cool.

Meanwhile, whisk the egg, grated cheese, nutmeg and salt together in a large bowl. Add the mashed potato, sprinkle with the 1/2 cup of flour. Gently and evenly fold together.

Turn onto a floured surface. Knead gently until the dough is springy. Add more flour if the dough is sticky.

Quarter the dough. Roll one piece into a long sausage shape about 1.5cm in diameter. Cut into 2cm lengths.

Repeat with the remaining dough. This makes about 60 gnocchi. They can be frozen at this stage if preferred.

To cook, bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to a simmer. Cook the gnocchi in small batches. They are cooked when they pop up to the surface.

Using a slotted spoon, lift out the gnocchi and drain in a plastic sieve. Or place directly into a sauce and reheat. - Serves about 6