Jan Bilton: Quinces, the perfect accompaniments

Quinces are perfect to make into jelly. Photo/Thinkstock

Quinces herald the arrival of cooler days. Their fragrant perfume is one of the chief reasons the fruit was commercially cultivated, even before the apple to which it is related.

However, unlike the apple and its other cousin the pear, quince flesh is hard and astringent and cannot be eaten raw. Its shape and colour is reminiscent of an ugly yellow pear but its skin is slightly fluffy and sometimes sticky.

Quinces make an incredible sweet/tart jelly to serve with meats and the excess pulp from the jelly can be turned into a paste to serve with cheeses or ham. If jelly making is not your thing then poach the peeled, sliced and cored quince in a syrup until it is soft and pink. A little is excellent in apple pies or you can puree the cooked fruit and serve as a sauce for game or as a drizzle for icecream.

Quinces make great chutneys and pickles and are delicious when baked with honey and spices for dessert.

I've been enjoying Anathoth Farm's latest addition to its range - a tart quince conserve, spread over hot toast for breakfast. It also makes an excellent glaze for roasted meats.

Also in season is the bright orange persimmon that has inspired poetry and prose alike. Persimmons have been grown in China and Japan for centuries and are now cultivated around the world. The round orange fruit can hang on leafless branches well into the frosty weather, giving a colourful glow to dark winter days.

There are two types of persimmon - the astringent and the non-astringent. The latter are sweet and are best eaten when the skin is an even orange-red colour and "gives" slightly when pressed. Enjoy as a snack or slice and serve on antipasto platters or in sweet or savoury salads. Or add them to cakes, muffins and pies. The astringent variety should be enjoyed when jelly-like - on icecream, in yoghurt, smoothies etc.

When choosing persimmons, ensure the green calyx (green petals) on top is in place and the fruit is brightly coloured, glossy and - for the non-astringent variety - firm. And handle them carefully to avoid bruising.