SURFING is a beautiful sport, or lifestyle, pursuit, hobby — whichever you prefer to call it. But that very ambiguity over how to define it is why I love it so much.
For some it is a sport, as it can be competitive and adrenaline-pumping; from trying to impress a certain someone on the beach to beating your mates or competing in an actual contest.
It is a lifestyle in that we surfers live near the surf, dream about it, and try to spend as much of our free time (and not-so-free) enjoying it.
It is a hobby in that it keeps us fit and focused, and helps relieve stress. And then there is the natural beauty of it. Simply being outside, in nature, in the ocean and the deep appreciation for the natural world it evokes.
Then there are the small progressions. Whether it is that first green face, cutback or tube, doing a nice bottom turn, or simply being out of your comfort zone. Like any sport, surfing takes a lot of practice and dedication. It can be a mental challenge.
I have taught surfing around the world and have witnessed hundreds of learners struggle through the ups-and-downs, including myself. Some stood up first time thinking, “this is easy”, only to spend another few months getting smashed trying to paddle out the back, battling for their first green wave. Others were absolutely terrified by waist-high rollers, yet only a few confidence-boosting rides later were charging down overhead waves.
Everyone has a different experience learning to surf, but, under the right circumstances, everybody I have ever met has loved it.
All of this is present in a friend of mine who has just started surfing. Her experience reminded me of the beauty of our sport. For starters, she used to hate surfing.
Perhaps it was the fact her boyfriend was one of the biggest frothers, with the waves never far from his mind and many a date postponed/cancelled as a result of a swell’s impromptu arrival. Maybe it was a water confidence thing. Who knows.
Whether it was a sneaky plan or simply for a bit of fun her boyfriend bought her a surfboard for Christmas. A hot pink soft-top — perfect for her to learn on. She was still adamant surfing was not for her. She was reluctant to go out, scared of the waves and currents, and always making excuses not to go.
During her first surfs, though, all of this began to change. After she stood up on a couple of waves, riding them all the way to the sand, she started to catch the bug. Soon enough she was the first in and last out, riding each wave for as long as possible.
Now she is checking the surf every day. But still, whenever you catch her on a wave, smiling ear to ear, she warns you: “Don’t tell my boyfriend!” She wanted to hate it but she simply couldn’t.
Teaching friends or whanau to surf is one of my favourite gifts, because it reminds me exactly why I fell in love with it in the first place. It is all the little things and ultimately, an insane amount of fun, no matter what level you are.
See you out the back.