1332 steps to the top

strolling barangaroo

Sydney sure knows how to entertain you, no matter the season. But in the crisper days of winter, fire yourself up with a weekend recharge in the Emerald City.

For a truly triumphal walk, you cannot beat the world's greatest coat-hanger. Sydney Harbour Bridge has been in milestone-mode of late, celebrating its 90th anniversary this year.

Since 1998, more than four million people have scaled the heights of this world-famous bridge, cementing it as one of the city's top-billing tourist experiences, the Bridge Climb. It's the most climbed bridge in the world. The VIP wall inside the attraction's reception area proudly displays some of its most famous guests, from Prince Harry, Oprah and David Beckham to Will Smith and Justin Timberlake. I first conquered this climb 20 years ago, after a long night on the town and feeling decidedly queasy.

Older and wiser this time around, my sister and I joined a group of fellow climbers for an early-morning ascent to the flag-flapping summit. Our entertaining Climb Leader, Mika, was feeling nostalgic because after 2000 climbs, he was guiding our group on his last outing. The fun facts and anecdotal nuggets flowed freely as we made our ascent to the summit of the world's largest steel arch. It takes 1332 steps to reach the summit, which on average will burn off 504 calories. How virtuous! It might sound like a lot of steps, but the walk is really quite the doddle, leisurely-paced, with ample stops to soak up the vistas and pose for photos.

But it's those high, wide and unobstructed views across the harbour and serrated skyline that really are the highlight of the Bridge Climb experience. Do it early morning and watch the rising sun spark up Sydney, from 134 metres above the water.

The bridge is undeniably an engineering masterpiece and central to Sydney's cultural history, but what really struck me as I gazed down at the lanes of vehicular traffic, trains, cyclists and walkers zipping by, was how future-proofed this bridge build was 90 years ago. Boldly built with a spaciously wide girth and able to cater to so many traffic modes, the bridge remains a masterclass in adaptable, future-focused design. It definitely deserves a climb.

If you haven't done so before now, bask in the brilliance of Barangaroo Reserve, Sydney's new foreshore park. After 200 years of maritime activity, and most recently a container wharf, this harbourside reserve unfurls across the northwestern tip of the CBD. With its giant sandstone “steps” down to the water, native trees and terraced gardens, Barangaroo is a prime picnic and exercise spot, with gun-barrel views across to Balmain and Darling Harbour.

Barangaroo seems to have refined Sydney's centre of gravity. Not only is it home to the city's tallest building, the soaring Crown Towers (nearly three rugby fields high,) but the Wulugul Walk waterfront trail is now all laced up, leading you from Barangaroo all the way down to Cockle Bay and Darling Harbour.

Where to stay? Backing Darling Harbour in Pyrmont, I enjoyed a great stay at Oaks Sydney Goldsbrough Suites. Add a dollop of old-bones character to your Sydney stay with this gorgeous heritage listed building which boasts comfortable and spacious serviced apartments. The venerable property combines the charm and elegant details of the Victorian age, with all the contemporary amenities discerning travellers expect. You'll also enjoy magnificent skyline views of Sydney's great landmarks from the upper floors. With its neo-classical facade, original tallowwood floors and exposed ironbark columns featured throughout the hotel, Oaks Sydney Goldsbrough Suites makes for a memorable stay.

The Goldsbrough was the first of 20 wool stores built on the Pyrmont peninsula, built in 1833, receiving bales of wool from all over NSW to be showcased then sold. While the exterior remains true to the original design, the central interior is now a soaring atrium with eye-opening views from all floors. There's a great display in the lobby illustrating its proud past. Bonus points for the free wifi, on-site pool area, sauna, spa and gym. Plus there's a convivial little neighbourhood café on the ground floor, for your wake-up caffeine fix and hearty breakfast. www.oakshotels.com

I flew to Sydney with Qantas, who operate an extensive network of Tasman services from Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch and Queenstown. (I love their new in-flight safety video, which artfully pays homage to their illustrious century-long service in the skies.) Qantas also provides a generous 30kg checked baggage allowance when flying Economy, or 40kg in Business. Qantas flights to Sydney start from $342, one-way. Book direct at www.qantas.com