A rare historic gem amid Rotterdam’s modernity is Hotel New York, also in Wilhelminapier. It occupies the venerable 1901 headquarters of the Holland-America Line. It once served as a departure point for thousands of Dutch immigrants to the US. Rotterdam is still Europe’s largest seaport, and being the birthplace of the Holland-America Line is still a source of local pride. The SS Rotterdam, the former flagship of the cruise line, was retired to its home port fifteen years ago. The ship’s decks offer superb views across the city and it’s a great way to dip into the history of the globally-acclaimed cruise line. Nearby, the elegantly swan-shaped Erasmus Bridge, which spans the River Meuse, is abuzz night and day with cheap-as-chips yellow water taxis.
Another headline architectural draw is De Markthal (The Market Hall) which is situated in the heart of Rotterdam, on the other side of the river. Shaped like a colossal downturned horseshoe, with an enormous glass façade on both ends, this epic structure is studded with hundreds of stalls, shops and eateries, in addition to offices and apartments. Nearly ten years old, its cavernous, curved internal ceiling is lavishly adorned with mega-sized murals depicting fruit, flowers and insects. It’s the largest artwork in the country. Street theatre routinely speckles the area, including those gorgeous old Dutch street barrel organs, ornately decorated with bell-ringing, pastel-hued dolls. Dutch barrel-organ culture is celebrating its 175th anniversary this year.
I ambled across to the wondrous, whimsical Kijk-Kubus, or Cube Houses. Unquestionably emblematic of Rotterdam, these eccentric, mustard-yellow cube houses were constructed as a 1970s-era housing development. Fashioned to resemble an urban forest, the 38 cube houses were designed in wacky, irregular geometric shapes by Piet Blom. Star shapes are formed where six Cube houses tilt and intersect with one another. Take a wander around the old harbour of Oudehaven, just adjacent to the cube houses. It’s home to the ‘Witte Huis’ (White House). Constructed in 1897, it was deemed Europe’s first skyscraper at just 43 metres. Yes, Rotterdam has always pushed the boundaries.
The ultimate arts and culture street, Witte de Withstraat, is famed for its artistic, cosmopolitan and bohemian character. Referred to as the city’s ‘Axis of Art’, it runs from the Maritime Museum to the Museumpark and is dotted with galleries, avant-garde boutiques, superb restaurants and cafés exuding atmosphere. Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen, housed in a landmark brick tower, displays a hefty collection spanning paintings by old masters. It’s currently being refurbished, but don’t fret. Right next door, the recently-opened Depot, is Rotterdam’s latest poster child. This boldly reimagined art gallery is set in a striking seven-storey, mirrored bowl-shaped building. It serves as the temporary storage facility for the museum’s 150,000 artworks. You can take a guided tour, to get a behind-the-scenes glimpse of how masterpieces are stored and preserved. A curated selection of the museum’s most precious works on public display includes paintings from Bruegel, Rembrandt, Munch and Van Gogh. Head up to the rooftop birch forest, for a great perspective on Rotterdam’s leafy green heart.
The James Rotterdam is an edgy, sophisticated design hotel, in the heart of town, with 144 beautiful rooms, warmly decorated with indulgent features. Urbane, stylish and great-value, the hotel features a self-serve 24/7 food pantry, which is a fun touch. I stayed at The James with Booking.com. Recognising the important role accommodation plays in providing a more inclusive experience to a diverse range of travellers, Booking.com began paving the way for everyone to Travel Proud with the launch of its free Proud Hospitality training programme two years ago. Since then, more than 15,000 accommodation options, including over 2,500 across Australia and New Zealand, are now being recognised for their inclusive hospitality efforts with a Travel Proud badge on www.booking.com
