ACROSS THE NORTH ISLAND

WEST TO EAST: The Kōpiko Bike Trail takes cyclists from Cape Egmont to East Cape. Graphic supplied

We set out to ride from the Cape Egmont lighthouse, west of New Plymouth, to the East Cape lighthouse, east of Te Araroa. It was a trip of nearly 1100km.

We were on e-bikes, the type that only work if you pedal, not throttle-controlled. Mine had a maximum speed of 25kmh.

We followed a documented bike trail called the Kōpiko Trail. It can be ridden either way and we chose west to east for the tailwind. We weren't racing, but taking our time to enjoy the countryside. It was 15 days of cycling, with four days off.

Originally we had booked this same trip with a biking company who a few weeks prior to “pedal off”, rang to say the trip was cancelled due to a lack of bookings. Once over the initial disappointment we decided maybe we could do the trip on our own — organise it all using the itinerary and the Kōpiko Trail booklet as a guide.

Most days we planned to do around 80 kms. Our bikes could do about 70 kms on one battery if we were very conservative, turning off on the flat and when going downhill, and rarely using high power. We took a second battery, as e-bike batteries on the type of terrain we were attempting would not make it without charging.

We also had a support driver and vehicle, for the first half, to carry gear and repair equipment etc. As a real precaution, in case of dire circumstances, we took a spare e-bike.

On November 1, we were at the Cape Egmont lighthouse to see the sunrise — not coming up over the sea as we are used to, living in the east, but rising from behind Mt Taranaki.

The first day was great. We biked up to the base of the mountain, through the Pukeiti Gardens then enjoyed a fabulous downhill ride into New Plymouth and out onto the Coastal Walkway.

All in all day one, ending at Lepperton, was a success and we loved it.

The second day was through back roads from Lepperton to Whangamomona, along the Forgotten Highway. This included a few good uphill climbs through farmland and forest with lovely views. Late in the day the heavy clouds lifted revealing Mount Taranaki away in the distance behind us.

This day I wanted to see how far one battery would go, riding conservatively, so was very happy to get nearly to the top of Whangamomona Saddle — around 72 kms — before it ran out. We then enjoyed a fantastic downhill ride over 6kms to our accommodation for the night at the iconic Whangamomona Hotel.

Day three was very wet but once the weather cleared around mid-morning we set off through the Tangarakau Gorge, through Ohura, completing our ride north of Matiere. That night we stayed with family in Te Kuiti.

On day four, my friend's bike would not start. She decided to see if she could find the problem and get it sorted. We were booked to stay at the Timber Trail Lodge in the Pureora Forest Park and this could not be changed. So I continued alone riding through the back roads of Ongarue and up through the Timber Trail. It was a lovely day. The trail was a bit rough in places but going up was made easier in the economy power range of the e-bike! A tiny wild black pig ran on to the trail ahead of me at one point then shot straight back into the undergrowth when he spotted me. I arrived at the lodge after 5pm after enjoying a great day riding through beautiful farmland and native bush. The long swing bridges of the Timber Trail are spectacular, over deep forested gullies and creeks.

The news on the disabled bike (my friend and our support crew were waiting at the lodge) was not promising. It would need further investigation in Rotorua.

We decided to use the other bike with one battery, and at least she would be able to bike the second day of the Timber Trail, up Mt Pureora and out to the main road. It was 25km to get to the highest point of the whole ride, and then a big downhill.

We cycled 75km that day, passing the central point of the North Island. It was a gravel road and at one stage we had many speeding motorcyclists on a rally coming towards us, creating much dust, noise, and flicking up stones.

We continued downhill through a tricky narrow gorge and over the very narrow Arataki swing bridge.

At this point the second bike had no battery left and I finished the last 25km on sealed roads and along part of the Waikato River trail to Whakamaru.

The next day my friend decided to take her bike into Rotorua and I carried on alone.

If there was a day I enjoyed least on the trip this was it. It began with a 25km stretch along the Waikato River trail, which was beautiful but quite challenging in places with rocks, roots, short, sharp inclines and turns. Crossing the dams was scenic and then into farmland again, but eight kms of newly graded metal road left me feeling a little vulnerable. This was followed by a road closure with no detours indicated!

However, all ended well with my friend waiting to pick me up at Waiotapu where we enjoyed a well-earned beer.

Next day was a rest day in Rotorua. I took my bike in for a quick service but my friend was given the bad news that the motor on her bike needed to be replaced and there were none in the country.

We decided to carry on and see how far we could go each day with the one battery on our back-up bike. We hoped we'd be able to find places to get a bit of a charge up.

The ride out of Rotorua on SH5 was not at all enjoyable, with too much traffic. We made it to Murupara where we were able to charge up the bike battery at a local cafe.

The day ended at the Whirinaki Forest Lodge at Minginui where we enjoyed good company and a delicious meal.

The next day was one of our trip's highlights. We had a fabulous day biking along the back road from Minginui through Ruatāhuna to Waikaremoana.

On a bike you are dressed for the conditions, can smell the smells, feel the air, hear the noises and see things you would miss in a vehicle.

This day we experienced that ancient forest, lovely creeks and waterfalls, quite a few mobs of wild cattle with calves, many horses with foals at foot, old whare, and some lovely local folk. A wild bull raced ahead of us for about a kilometre until he found a way off into the bush.

We had lunch at Ruatāhuna while the battery charged then set off up the big ascent which had some amazing views across the forest. It started raining at the summit. I had forgotten to swap to my second battery here so had to make my way to Waikaremoana with no power, in the pouring rain and a very soft, slushy road surface. It was quite a ride, and I had to push the bike on all inclines. E-bikes are very heavy to ride with no power. About 2kms from camp our driver arrived with the second battery but by this time I was drenched and covered in mud! Still, it was fun.

The rain continued all night. The forecast was for a weather event over the East Cape for the next day or two. At this point things were becoming frustrating and we decided to head to Gisborne to reassess.

After much thought my friend decided to go home (she lives in the Far North). But after discussions with family and lots of thinking, I decided to continue alone. I didn't want to stop. I was fit, and in an area I knew well, so my sister took me back to Waikaremoana and off I went. This time, with no support vehicle, all I needed was on my bike.

I had two long days ahead, the first from the lake through Tuai into the Ohuka Valley and down the Ruakituri Valley to Te Reinga. This day was the hottest and had the steepest climbs of the whole trip, up the hills of Ohuka Road! The second day I set off from Te Reinga in gentle rain, along Tiniroto Road, turning into the Pehiri Valley through Tahunga and finished the day at Rere School. It was a fabulous ride.

Day three of going it alone I made my way up through Wharekopae to Matawai and on to Mōtū. It was great as I knew people and places along the way close to Matawai. I took a photo of a shepherd on horseback moving cattle because he was the first person on the whole trip that I had seen on a horse!

From Mōtū I had a great ride through the old Mōtū Road to Ōpape on the Ōpōtiki coast. Traffic was minimal, with no logging trucks that day.

Cycling along the coast from Ōpape I decided to slow right down and enjoy the scenery. The Mōtū River was impressive — I spent a bit of time here. Continuing along to Te Kaha, the sea views were fantastic.

Next day I decided to go into Lottin Point. Again the coast was beautiful, a bit stormy with heavy rain clouds and the odd downpour but luckily it cleared for the majority of the day. The coast horses were plentiful and many had foals at foot. Beekeepers were all very busy getting their hives into the manuka.

That night my daughters and a grandson came and joined me at Lottin Point for the evening and to share the ride with me on the final day. We had a great ride. The girls loved it and so did I.

The ride from Te Araroa to the East Cape was stunning — the cattle along the beach, the horses, the farmland was looking beautiful and green, then there was the sea and around the last corner I spotted the lighthouse!

I hadn't anticipated the feeling of achievement that overcame me at that point.

I couldn't have done it without my friend's enthusiasm and planning. I hope that once her bike is back in action she will be able to complete the journey.

I loved it and one day will do another, perhaps the same one but from east to west, hopefully with a buddy all the way!

• For more information on the Kōpiko Trail go to