Smiles under the Milky Way

Setting foot on Navutu Beach I instantly acquire many close friends. Within two days I have met even more people in the nearby village and feel part of a large family of island dwellers.
Such is the enchantment of the Fijian spirit of Bula Vinaka, the natural hospitality, irresistible smiles and good humour of the people.
Navutu Beach is on Yaqeta Island, which lies midway along the 80km-long Yasawa archipelago. It is part of "Old Fiji" - largely unchanged and likes to set its own languid pace. The most northerly bay is fronted by a secluded luxury hideaway called Navutu Stars Resort. It's beautiful, with white-sand beaches, swaying palms, rich marine life and profusions of hibiscus and frangipani blooms.
Tonight, I'm dining on the deck under a panoply of needle-sharp stars in the full compass of the Milky Way, before retiring to my comfortable bure. But the real stars of Navutu Bay are the ever-smiling, helpful staff.
Sulu, a 30-year-old with the typical Fijian physique of a rugby front row forward, is one of these stars. He escorts me through plantations of taro, cassava, sweet potatoes, banana and corn to Yaqeta Village, home to many of the resort staff.
Sulu introduces me to everyone we pass including a 3-year-old boy in a Spiderman T-shirt clutching his toothbrush and paste and an attractive young woman whom Sulu claims is his wife, which causes great hilarity among bystanders as his wife is at his home on the mainland. To make a game out of everything, with frequent laughter and repartee, is an endearing trait of Yasawa islanders.
I visit the home of resort staffer, Kikau, and sit with him on a pandanus mat in the open-plan room. The only non-traditional object in the room is the book is Kill Bin Laden. His three young children arrive home from school, with ready smiles, a little English and great curiosity about the white visitor.
Kikau explains how the village is divided into clans of warriors, fishermen, planters and priests. This specialisation of labour was vital for survival in the turbulent times before the missionaries came and is perpetuated to keep the culture alive. Most families have a plot of land for subsistence agriculture - the island's sole cash crop is copra and the only other primary source of income is working at the resort and selling handicrafts to tourists. No one goes hungry as the volcanic soils are rich, crop growth is prolific and the communal support base has always been strong.
B ACK at the resort, the guest co-ordinator Dan arranges two excursions for me.
The first is with Seruvi, the mischievous fun-loving head of activities, who guides me into the Sawa-I-Lau sea caves, where he cautions me to enter the limpid green pool of water quietly to avoid offending the malevolent cave spirits.
He then leaps from a high ledge to land next to me with a great explosion of sound.
We dive down to a damaged coral reef to retrieve live branches of broken blue-tipped coral. We then take these specimens and plant them carefully in holes in a degraded reef just out from the resort. Given favourable conditions, the coral polyps will rebuild the reef over the next two years. It gives me quite a buzz to be part of a coral conservation project. The presence of demoiselles and angelfish is an encouraging sign.
Lying on a daybed on the placid shore of Navutu Bay, I soon gain an understanding of "Fiji Time" - the inspired idea that things will happen in their own time. Dinner time is a highlight of the Navutu day. I meet more of the stars with their winning smiles and ready laughs.
Ben, the chef with Rudolf Valentino eyes, conjures up stylish Italian and Pacific Rim flavours with freshly caught fish and produce from his organic garden. I'm enjoying gnocchi, spinach and the unlikely combination of spaghetti and lobster, followed by passionfruit creme brulee.
Waiting staff, Api and Ete, make all the guests laugh. Wati, who prefers to be called Queen Mother or Queenie, waits on my table then joins five professional dancers in an entertainment routine that leaves everyone speechless. It is truly remarkable how a large man with a warrior physique can execute the dainty hand and body movements of a traditional Fijian romantic, hip-swaying dance. Suniu, the barman excels at mixing mai tais, daiquiris and some pretty potent mojitos.
By day three I have fallen in love with Yaqeta Island, its people and my spacious beachfront bure with its Mediterranean-inspired interior and 8m-high thatched roof. The exclusivity of a boutique resort with nine bures encourages the feeling that one is living on a private island - there's absolutely nothing here to interrupt the reverie of rest, relaxation and rejuvenation, so it seems fitting to indulge in a therapeutic massage.
Bulou, the tall, strikingly attractive spa therapist, has a range of treatments including Aloe Vera Body Wraps, Queen Bee Facials with organic honey and oats and Lady in Paradise honey facials. Ninety per cent of her clients are honeymooners enjoying "his and hers" massages - there's a palpable aura of romance in this place. I choose the deep tissue massage with coconut oil and essence of lavender and emerge feeling totally relaxed.
Grace, the assistant masseuse, is the epitome of a graceful island lady and has a fine soprano voice. She invites a group of guests to the Sunday service on Matacawalevu Island and sings like an angel. The minister graciously welcomes us to the service.
The knowledgeable office administrator, Varani, tells me that through the Lion Cub Foundation the resort supports 40 disadvantaged village children. Then there is the Loloma Foundation, which sees volunteer doctors staying at the resort while they treat the Yasawa Island people.
The people of Yaqeta have left a deep impression on my memory. They have made me smile and laugh and touched my heart, reminding me that love is universal. After two nights here, I feel like I'm part of a bigger family on this unique island of luxury and charm.
This is why I love to travel, to chance upon the surprising and the sublime. The natural hospitality of the Fijian people is truly special. The lovely folk of Yaqeta inhabit the friendliest island on earth.
- Paul Rush travelled to the Yasawa Islands courtesy of Blue Lagoon Cruises, Navutu Stars, the Westin Denarau and Sheraton Fiji resorts.
Getting there
Air New Zealand and Air Pacific operate daily flights from Auckland with domestic connections from Wellington and Christchurch. The resort is reached by float plane or helicopter from Nadi Airport or luxury catamaran from Port Denarau.
www.bulafiji.com
www.bluelagooncruises.com
www.navutustarsfiji.com
www.westin.com/denarauresort
www.sheraton.com/fiji
When to go
May to October is the most popular time to travel when Fiji's tropical climate is slightly cooler.