Why do we love black so much asks Claire Regnault in a new book which analyses the phenomenon of black in New Zealand Fashion. Meanwhile here in the Bay, local fashionistas prefer a pop of colour.
Black, black, black. They love it."
So wrote Lisa Armstrong, fashion critic for the London Times, in 2004, a lone pastel-clad figure at New Zealand Fashion Week surrounded by native fashionistas 'in layers of black'. Claiming that New Zealanders blamed the weather for their 'addiction to black', Armstrong theorised that it was New Zealand's attempt to differentiate itself from Sydney Fashion Week, 'which it sees as a sort of Sodom-and-Gomorrah fleshpot of sin, showiness and sequins'. In European terms, she sweepingly concluded 'Sydney is Milan and Auckland is Antwerp. Or put another way, Sydney is Paris Hilton and Auckland is Jean-Paul Sartre, without the lifelong existential crisis.'
Armstrong was not the first to remark on the differences between the Australian and NZ fashion scenes, and New Zealanders' preference for the darker shades of the colour spectrum. The comparisons had been made since the late 1990s, when New Zealand designers first began showing at Australian Fashion Week. Marcus von Ackermann, the fashion director for Vogue Paris observed: 'New Zealanders have a darker outlook, less show-offy, more intellectual.'
Doris de Pont, curator of the New Zealand Fashion Museum's exhibition, 'Black in fashion' displayed in Britomart during the Rugby World Cup says,
"When fashion reviewers used the words such as 'edgy, dark and intellectual' to describe the New Zealand Four - Karen Walker, NOM*d, World and Zambesi - showing at London Fashion Week in 1999, ... the descriptors were judged to be complimentary to our national brand. Subsequent New Zealand fashion design has developed to affirm the truth of the 'edgy, dark and intellectual' perception.
While not always dark in colour, New Zealand fashion collections are distinguished by being conceptually based (intellectual) and outside of mainstream trends (edgy).
On 3 November 2009 fashion blogger Isaac Hinden Miller of Isaac Likes posted the 'Black Debate'. The post was spurred by a re-reading of Stacy Gregg's book Undressed in which she vividly described the turn of the century fervour surrounding the rise of New Zealand's 'dark and intellectual' designers. After a quick review of recent collections by Zambesi, NOM*d, Karen Walker and Kate Sylvester, Miller noted the presence of 'plenty of colour', and asked his readers, 'So why then, do we see everybody in black?'
Miller's question sparked a lively stream of theories from his readers, most of whom professed to wearing black. They ranged from the practical - it hides stains, it's slimming and goes with everything - to meditations on the New Zealand psyche. 'R' thought it was 'reflective of a lingering Puritanism' while 'Carbunkle' staunchly argued that wearing black is a way of disavowing the 'established norms and tropes of fashion, e.g. colour, pattern... that we are dark and subversive and not ever going to be 'on trend'.
A CULTURE OF EASE
Lisa Armstrong felt that New Zealanders weren't temperamentally suited to black - too friendly, too relaxed. New Zealanders' attraction to black, rather than being a reflection of a dark or tormented psyche is more about a utilitarian approach to clothing and a rejection, by both designers and buyers, of the more fickle aspects of fashion and its dictates. Elisabeth Findlay works to select fabrics 'valid outside of any fashion trend'. While James Dobson of Jimmy D finds colour 'loaded with such boring practicalities. Does this colour suit me? Will this colour date?' He periodically includes bursts of colour to anchor a collection in a moment in time. Where black is associated with timelessness and longevity, colour has become knotted up with time. To this end, World like to encourage each customer to explore 'colour and shape to constantly re-define herself each season'.
Extract reproduced with permission from Black: History of Black in Fashion, Society and Culture in New Zealand by the New Zealand Fashion Museum. RRP $59.99. Published by Penguin Group NZ. Text © Claire Regnault & New Zealand Fashion Museum, 2012; Text © Doris de Pont & New Zealand Fashion Museum, 2012
BLACK IN THE BAY
"Black is a sophisticated colour and so very slimming, versatile, and forms a great classic base for any wardrobe. A few well-chosen basics in black will last a long time as there is a timeless quality to this colour. Black can take one from am to pm pretty effortlessly. What's not to love about black." Lee Kleiman, head designer for the Repertoire Group.
"There is far too much black in NZ fashion. There will always be a place for it, especially in winter and casual daywear. But I hate seeing a sea of black dresses at a wedding, or at the races or a party. Anyone in a bright, fun, bold colour stands out, looks amazing and gets many compliments. Why would you not want to be 'that girl' looking fab in a punchy vibrant colour." Kelly Coe, owner and designer, Augustine International.
"Black will never be out of fashion. But the way we wear it should be. By that I mean if you are going to wear black as your base, look for colour in your accessories eg, shoes, bags, makeup and even hair colour and styling.
New Zealanders could be more creative in the way they finish their outfits and their use of colour whether it be a little or a lot.
Black is strong for our 2012 Autumn/Winter collection of shoes. People still can't get enough of black boots. We add texture and layering so that there is some depth to the black obsession." Rebecca Anderson, designer and managing director, Chaos and Harmony.
"Black is such a powerful colour in fashion as it allows the wearer to change and adapt to suit their mood or situation. A simple black dress can be sophisticated, glamorous, striking or dark, gothic and edgy all depending on how the wearer styles and creates the look that goes with it. It provides a blank canvas to work with, the wearer shows through rather than the colour overtaking their personality." Teresa Hodges, designer, Blak and Blak Luxe.
"Black is still in fashion and always will be. It's chic and flattering. With the comeback of timeless pieces, black will be coming through strong as it never dates." Kylie Torr, buyer, Wendys Boutique