Little village thinks big

Just south of Oamaru and the roly-poly hills of North Otago, a sharp turn left leads you to the postcard-perfect prettiness of the Moeraki Peninsula. If you happen to be on a southern road trip, this is one short diversion off the main highway that exceeds all expectations.
This pint-sized fishing village has a legacy of punching above its weight.
Originally settled as a whaling station, a railway line was rolled out in 1877 in high hopes that the village, the first European settlement in the region, would evolve into a substantial port. It wasn't to be, the railway line closed two years later, and Moeraki set about cementing itself as fishing hot-spot, coastal resort and artistic retreat.
The great artist Frances Hodgkins was a regular visitor and Keri Hulme wrote the Booker-prize winning novel, The Bone People in Moeraki. But the most distinguished resident of late is undoubtedly one of the South Island's greatest foodies, Fleur Sullivan.
In addition to the tranquil atmosphere that Moeraki exudes by the bucketload, the village is famous for its geological wonders. Scattered across the northern flank of its sandy shores are the playfully captivating Moeraki Boulders. Maori mythology tells that the boulders are the remnants of calabashes, kumara and eel baskets that washed ashore after the legendary canoe, the Araiteuru, was destroyed by rocks at nearby Shag Point.
Geologists say these giant marble-like stones are not your typical round boulders shaped by rivers and surging seas. Wonderfully spherical in shape, they were created in ancient seafloor sediments, similar to the formation of oyster pearls, where layers of material cover a central core. In the case of boulders, it was fossil shell, bone fragments and pieces of wood.
The original mudstone seabed was subsequently uplifted to form the nearby coastal cliffs. Erosion of the cliffs has dislodged the three-tonne captive boulders, which now loosely scatter the shoreline in an eye-catching jumble. What I particularly love about these boulders is to admire their immensity and complexity in the glistening sunlight. You can see the textured layers of geological history in their tactile glory. If there are families visiting the boulders as the same time you are, chances are, kids will be sitting atop them. In fact, they are probably the most sat-on boulders in New Zealand.
When you've completed your fix with the boulders, be sure to take the road to the lighthouse where a short walk leads you to the yellow-eyed penguin colony and seal colony. Guaranteed crowd-pleasers. If time allows, another great walking option is the Trotter's Gorge walking track which weaves its way through splendid native forest.
TOP TIPS
* Moeraki is located 40 minutes south of Oamaru, just past Hampden on State Highway 1. If you are travelling from Dunedin, it's about 40 minutes north. Follow the signposts from Palmerston.
* Most travellers take in Moeraki as a day-trip. However, if you want to linger longer the village ambience and invigorating sea breeze are pure therapy for travel fatigue. A great-value overnight stop is at the Moeraki Motel. www.moerakimotel.co.nz