Jan Bilton: Chefs' crush on essential ingredient (+recipes)

Tomato, Chilli and Garlic Relish

Garlic - it's the one pleasure gourmets cannot live without. It's almost as fundamental to cooking as salt and pepper, and is widely accepted as long as it is used discreetly. Garlic is enjoyed for its flavour more than for its nutritional value although it can help protect against heart disease and destroy harmful bacteria.

Most of New Zealand's garlic is grown in the Marlborough region although Central Otago now produces a respectable crop. The combination of a hard winter followed by a long, dry summer suits garlic growing perfectly.

Pukekohe, south of Auckland, also produces garlic and many Kiwis grow their own, planting cloves on the shortest day of the year and harvesting bulbs close to the longest day. New Zealand garlic is distinctively fresh, juicy and pungent, especially compared with imported varieties. One local clove is as strong as three imported ones. New Zealand garlic is never cool-stored - a process that causes the bulbs to lose their juiciness - but will keep for up to 11 months in a cool, dark, well-ventilated place.

Several commercial varieties are grown, ranging from white to cream to stripy pink. Elephant garlic features larger cloves and a milder flavour.

Smoked garlic is smoked over manuka and herbs that impart a subtle, sweet, nutty flavour. For best results, store smoked garlic in a covered container in a cool place or the fridge.

Black garlic (garlic noir) is white garlic that is given a low-heat treatment in a confined enclosure for 60 days. During that time the sugar levels increase to 60 brix (the sugar level in an aqueous solution), the garlic "ferments" and becomes black. The texture is soft and smooth; the flavour a cross between balsamic vinegar and liquorice. It is available from selected supermarkets and many delis.

Garlic burns easily, so take care when sauteing or frying. For a more pungent flavour, add crushed garlic to some dishes at the end of cooking. I prefer to crush garlic by sprinkling it with a little salt and mashing it to a paste with the blade of a strong cook's knife.

RECIPES

TOMATO, CHILLI, & GARLIC RELISH

1.5kg tomatoes
1 red chilli, diced
4 medium onions, diced
6 cloves garlic, diced
1 tbsp grated root ginger
3 cups sugar
1 & 3/4 cups cider vinegar
1 tbsp salt
2 tbsp each: mustard powder, curry powder, cornflour

Prick the top of the tomatoes with a sharp fork. Place in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Stand for 3 minutes then refresh in cold water. Peel.

Chop the tomatoes and place in a large saucepan. Add the chilli, onions, garlic, ginger and sugar. Stir well. Add 1 & 1/2 cups of the cider vinegar and the salt. Bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 1 hour, stirring occasionally.

Mix the mustard, curry powder, cornflour and remaining vinegar until smooth. Stir into the tomato mixture, until thickened. - Makes 6 cups

BLACK GARLIC-GLAZED SALMON

1/4 cup each: balsamic vinegar, medium white wine
2 tbsp honey
3 cloves black garlic, diced
1 tsp diced red chilli
2 tsp canola oil
400g boneless salmon loins or fillets
Freshly ground black pepper

Whisk together the vinegar, wine, honey, black garlic and chilli.

Heat the oil in a heavy frying pan until a faint haze rises. Season the salmon with the black pepper. Place, skin-side down, in the pan. Cover and cook on low heat for 3 to 4 minutes. Turn the salmon over and cook for another minute, if preferred. The centre should still be a little transparent. Transfer to a warm platter and tent with foil.

Add the black garlic mixture to the pan and simmer for 1 minute. Place in a small bowl and puree with a stick blender. Spoon over the salmon. - Serves 4

SMOKED GARLIC, CAVOLO NERO & POTATO MASH

500g mashing potatoes
2 cloves smoked garlic
1 cup finely sliced cavolo nero
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2-3 tbsp butter or table spread

Leave the skins on the potatoes, if preferred. Cut into chunks. Boil the potatoes, covered, for 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cavolo nero. Cover and continue cooking until the potatoes are soft. Drain well.

Season and add the butter or table spread. Mash well. - Serves 4

GARLIC PUREE FOR LAMB

I used the pink striped variety of garlic. The cloves are large and the skins readily removed. Use the flat blade of a heavy knife to smash the cloves.
3 whole bulbs garlic
1 cup milk
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Few drops of lemon juice, optional

Break the bulbs into cloves. Smash the cloves, remove skins.

Place in a small saucepan and add milk. Lightly cover then simmer on very low heat for 10 minutes, until the garlic is just soft. Add the olive oil, salt and pepper. Using a stick blender, puree the mixture, until smooth. Add the lemon juice, if using. Great with roast or grilled lamb. - Serves 4