Legendary Ponsonby restaurant S.P.Q.R has been a magnet for Auckland diners for more than 20 years. With its Italian-inspired menu, colourful atmosphere and sun-bathed pavement tables, there really is no other restaurant quite like it.
Following the release of a magnificent cookbook, called simply S.P.Q.R, I asked one of the owners, Chris Rupe, a few questions.
What does S.P.Q.R. stand for?
Senatus Populusque Romanus. In ancient Roman times, the Senate and the people of Rome were separate. When the Roman Republic was formed, and the people and the senate came together, S.P.Q.R referred to a place for everyone. To me, S.P.Q.R is a living, breathing entity and I often have conversations with her in my mind, about what we are doing and where we are heading.
Your restaurant is a place for everyone - "From millionaires to the stony broke" - How do you do this?
I suppose the ethos comes from the meaning of S.P.Q.R - it genuinely is a place for everyone. We have celebrities, mums, dads, punks, power dressers, divorcees, politicians, grandparents, great-grandparents and kids. People from all walks of life. Everyone is treated the same.
S.P.Q.R is iconic. What makes it the place to be in Ponsonby?
More than anything else, the atmosphere, the vibrancy. The clang and the clatter. And I guess a bit of what I said above - it's a place for everyone to come, to feel comfortable in. We try to be generous and welcoming to everyone who comes. S.P.Q.R's sense of fun oozes from every nook and cranny. She's a bit mischievous!
What are some of the finer touches that set your restaurant apart from others?
The staff certainly are quirky and unique, you're welcome to come here for as much or a little of an experience as you like. At the same time, it's quite private, and it's okay to be yourself.
Before taking over ownership of the restaurant in 1995, along with Kelvin Gibson and Anthony Evans, What did you do?
Straight out of school, I did a five-year hotel traineeship at the Rose Park Hotel, under the guidance of Joe Low. Then I travelled overseas - various countries, various restaurants. I worked for seven years as a manager at Doyle's restaurant in Watson's Bay, Sydney before returning to New Zealand at the ripe age of 33. A bit of a late starter really.
Have you always had a passion for food?
Yes, from a young age. I was about 6 and one of my best friend's mother's cooked chilli con carne at school and gave it to the class, in Taumaranui. It was a refreshing change.
Do you cook yourself?
Yes, actually - when my wife lets me into the kitchen we eat very simply, pretty much protein and vegetables, and try to steer away from carbohydrates. My favourite dish is organic roast chicken. However I am always in the kitchen at S.P.Q.R experimenting with new ingredients and flavours.
Do you have a favourite recipe from the book?
To be fair, I would have to say two or three. The cover shot, the fresh South Island crab marinara linguine. The crab is flown in from the South Island, and the freshness and sweetness of the live crabs is the secret to the dish. Other particular favourites are the confit duck, the scampi linguine, and rich snapper saffron and chilli stew.
Describe S.P.Q.R'S menu.
Our basic theme is an Italian, mostly traditional main menu, and our daily specials are where we showcase more modern, Italian fare. Like most restaurants we have an affinity with freshness which is prevalent in our seafood (especially the oysters). Our red meats are generally angus pure, which is high quality beef. Favourite ingredients are garlic, lemon, chilli and parsley.
How do you keep improving?
I truly believe this is a "passion" thing. I continuously ask myself, "What delights would my customers like this week?" That, in line with seasonality of produce. The other ingredient for me here is to travel - one must take the time to dine at lunch and enjoy dinner. Quite often, a dish that is working well overseas will work well here.
Who chose the recipes for this book? and who translated and tested them for the home cook?
All the recipes were chosen by myself for the book. My close friend Anne Thorp, from Kai Ora, Pakiri Productions, and an ambassador for S.P.Q.R, tested all of the recipes in her home.
Some of the recipes are from the original menu. what are they and what makes them so popular?
Chicken fettucine, great hangover food, fresh oysters, perfect with a glass of bubbles, snapper with saffron risotto, fresh and healthy, and lots of the pizzas.
Do you have a favourite place to sit and relax at the restaurant?
When I come in to dine, I generally sit in the side room, which is nice and private.
For a first timer at your restaurant what would you recommend from the menu?
I would recommend something you wouldn't cook at home. For example, the gravlax salmon, cured in Hendrick's gin, fresh buffalo mozzarella, confit duck, or the S.P.Q.R paella, the veal marsala, the Italian fish stew, and the flounder fillets.
If you could entertain anyone at your restaurant who would it be and what would you serve them?
I'd love to see Mick Jagger again. Last time he had a prosciutto pizza with a glass of pinot gris, and this time I'd offer him scampi linguine with a glass of Astrolabe chardonnay.
How do you see S.P.Q.R in 2020?
Still going strong, as it is today. Probably got a few little baby S.P.Q.Rs popping up, with more emphasis on healthier food.
Lime and thyme blend perfectly in this recipe to create a succulent dish. Great served with a side of blanched asparagus. - Serves 4
Ingredients
1 tbsp olive oil
4 free-range chicken breasts, bone in
2 large limes, skin on, sliced in rings
2 tbsp fresh thyme sprigs
1 tbsp crushed garlic
lime slices, thyme sprigs and extra virgin olive oil, to garnish
Method
Preheat oven to 200C.
Heat a large frying pan with olive oil until hot. Add chicken skin-side down and sear for 2 to 3 minutes on each side until golden and caramelised.
Place chicken in a large baking dish, add lime, thyme and garlic and cook in oven for 18 to 23 minutes until juices run clear.
Arrange chicken on plates. Garnish with fresh lime slices and thyme sprigs, and drizzle with olive oil.
A true Italian classic. This is the perfect dolce to share when entertaining. It is simple to make, and you can prepare it beforehand and bring it out ready to serve after the main course. - Serves 6 - 8
Ingredients
300ml short black coffee
140g caster sugar
50ml brandy
25ml amaretto
12 ladyfinger biscuits
2 egg yolks
30ml marsala
1 tbsp warm water
500g mascarpone
300g creme fraiche
2 egg whites
Valrhona cocoa powder, to dust
Valrhona chocolate shavings, to garnish
Method
Heat coffee and half the sugar in a small saucepan over a low heat for approximately 2 to 4 minutes until the sugar dissolves. Add brandy and amaretto and set aside to cool.
Lay the ladyfingers flat in a deep tray, pour coffee syrup over and allow to absorb for approximately 5 to 10 minutes.
Whisk the yolks, remaining sugar, marsala and water in a large heatproof bowl over a pot of simmering water for approximately 2 to 4 minutes, until thickened. Set aside to cool.
Whisk the mascarpone and creme fraiche together, then fold into the egg mixture.
In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites together until soft peaks form, then fold through the creme fraiche mixture.
Lay half the soaked ladyfingers in a 25cm square serving dish, then spread half the creme fraiche mixture over the top and dust with cocoa powder, then repeat. Rest in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours before serving. Garnish with chocolate shavings.
They were keynote speakers at this year's Business Women’s Network Speaker Series.