Tony Smith combines his love of the outdoors and food in his new book.
Kiwi Tony Smith is an adventurer. He loves wild and rural New Zealand - the mountains, rivers, lowlands and sea. And he loves food. The chef combines his passion for the outdoors with his love of the cuisines of France, Asia and the Pacific in his new book A River Rules My Kitchen.
Born in Dunedin and educated in Alexandra and Gore, Tony has been a chef for more than 40 years. I asked him a few questions.
WHERE DID YOU GROW UP? WAS HUNTING AND FISHING PART OF YOUR CHILDHOOD?
I was born in Dunedin, lived in Alexandra for part of my childhood, a couple of years in Gore and then to Temuka where I spent my high school years. I lived for fishing as a youngster at Karitane, where our family had a holiday home. I loved to cook everything I caught. When we moved to Temuka we lived next door to an ex professional deer culler, Jim: he had a wonderful patience with us young lads. I remember going out with him and we had a cold wild rabbit for lunch, great.
WHAT TURNED YOUR ATTENTION TO COOKING?
I always enjoyed cooking as mentioned, as a possible career, Graham Kerr appeared on television in the late 60s and I was fascinated, and hooked, I had decided what I would do before I left primary school.
WHO WAS YOUR BIGGEST INSPIRATION?
When I had just completed my apprenticeship, I met a young French chef, Claude Baudet.
He was classically French trained, had a love of gardening, and grew vegetable varieties unknown in New Zealand at the time. Endive, globe artichokes, witlof, mache, chervil, all available and commonly used today but this was the mid-70s -- avocados were just making their mark. We fished as well. He remains a close friend to this day.
As far as inspiration from books, the French masters: Paul Bocuse, Troisgros, Chapel, Roger Verge among others and I would purchase any book I could on the rustic French provincial cuisine. In the late-80s I travelled with a New Zealand chefs team to London where we were based at the Ritz hotel. An English chef, Michael Quinn, was the first British chef to be given that role and my brief time there was to influence the style of dishes I came to love. And the tradition. Michael and I still keep in contact.
WHERE IS YOUR FAVOURITE SPOT ... THE PLACE YOU CAN CLOSE YOUR EYES AND RELAX?
Any river, especially high country; waterscapes in general.
HOW LONG DID IT TAKE YOU TO COMPILE THIS BOOK?
Around five years, but delayed when I took up a role in India after the Christchurch earthquakes that closed the Crowne Plaza I was working in.
HOW DID YOU DECIDE ON THE RECIPES?
I had been compiling them for a long time - I sent Harper Collins a lot more than necessary and then needed to cut a lot out.
That was tough, in the end I just tried to include an example of each item, method ...
I included more recipes of the items I thought would be more accessible: salmon, venison, duck, trout et cetera.
AND WHICH IS YOUR FAVOURITE?
Well, there are many. For the effort I really enjoy the rotisserie wild duck, it is really good, well worth the trouble.
IN FIVE WORDS DESCRIBE THE ENVIRONMENT YOU LOVE
.New Zealand's provinces, water, calm weather, a fishing rod, companionship.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE MEAL?
Any meal with family and friends. Seasonal: the first asparagus, a winter game dinner, salmon and, of course, fresh oysters.
IF YOU COULD COOK FOR ANYBODY IN THE WORLD ... AND ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD, WHO WOULD IT BE AND WHERE WOULD IT BE?
Well, family and friends are top of the list.
But for a celeb, John Cleese. I have met him, I know he loves our wines and I love a laugh.
So on a vineyard, say Central Otago or Waipara, North Canterbury.
YOU ARE ONLY JUST RETURNING HOME TO NEW ZEALAND. TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT WHAT YOU HAVE BEEN DOING.
I have for the last two years been the opening chef for a Crowne Plaza hotel in Greater Noida, New Delhi, India, and then on my way back to New Zealand I spent six months at an IHG Holiday Inn.
ANY THOUGHTS OF ANOTHER BOOK TO COVER THE DELIGHTS OF THE NORTH ISLAND?
I would love to have the opportunity to compile another book and as I have my two sons and families in the North Island that would be a focus.
TELL US TWO THINGS ABOUT YOURSELF THAT WOULD SURPRISE.
I have five grandchildren.
I am happy to wash dishes!
INGREDIENTS
2 monkfish fillets
2 blue moki fillets
68 fillets of small estuary fish such as yellow-eyed mullet or spotties
20 cockles, clams or pipis, or 12 mussels
50ml olive oil
1 leek, diced
a pinch of chilli flakes
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1/3 cup white wine
1 small potato, peeled and finely diced
1 bulb fennel, diced (keep any feathery fronds to use as garnish)
6 tomatoes, chopped
1 tsp orange zest
a good pinch of New Zealand saffron
1 litre water
1 bay leaf
a few sprigs of fresh thyme
salt and freshly ground black pepper
cup fresh herbs such as Italian parsley, chives or chervil, roughly chopped
METHOD
This is a simplified version of the great bouillabaisse from the south of France. The amount of seafood obviously depends on the fish available in your area, and the success of the day's catch, but the aim is to use what has been caught. The varieties will not diminish the aim or enjoyment of this dish - and even if you only have a couple of varieties this dish is still worth cooking. This recipe uses some of the bones to produce a fuller flavour but if you have not retained them just omit this step. The key is to cook the firmer fish first and the smaller flaky fish at the end so the fillets do not break up.
Cut the large fillets into good chunky pieces. Keep a few of the fish bones - put them in a small metal sieve. Scrub the shellfish well (those green pot scrubbing pads are good for this). Put the oil into a large saute pan or wok. Add the leek, chilli flakes and garlic. Fry gently, then pour in the wine. Cook for a minute, then add the potatoes, tomatoes, fennel, orange zest and saffron. Simmer for a few minutes and add the water. Add the sieve containing the bones and simmer gently for 15 minutes, then remove. Put in the herbs, a little salt and some pepper. Add more water if the mixture reduces too much. Add the mussels and cover. When they start to open add the monkfish. Simmer for 5 minutes, then add the cockles. When they open, add the smaller, softer fish fillets. Cook until these last fillets are ready, probably just 4-5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning as required. Sprinkle over any fennel fronds you may have and other green herbs.
To serve, place the whole saucepan on the middle of the table. Serve with toasted garlic bread, pour generous glasses of local wine and reflect on the day!
- Serves 4
INGREDIENTS
1 sheet prepared flaky pastry, thawed
10 apricots, halved and stoned
2 tbsp sugar
2 tsp river honey
20g butter
METHOD
A galette in my world is a very simple tart: a base of flaky pastry, with raw fruit arranged on top, then baked. Most chefs and good cooks will have a culinary mentor, someone who has passed on their knowledge or inspired you to expand yours. I met Claude, a young French chef, in the 70s and he refuelled the interest I had in the connections of food to the outdoors and the garden. He was and still is a master at quickly gathering a few simple ingredients and cooking a treat. The galette is one that all of Claude's friends would have enjoyed in many guises many times.
Preheat the oven to 180C.
Place the sheet of pastry on a greased oven tray, trim off the corners and roll out like a pizza, then crimp the edges a little so that the outer rim of the pastry is slightly raised. Place the apricot halves in slightly overlapping layers, starting from the edges, until they are all used. Bake for 15 minutes. While the galette is cooking, combine the honey, sugar and butter in a saucepan and heat until all is dissolved. When the galette has been in the oven for 15 minutes, pull out the tray and brush over the honey glaze. Return to the oven and cook until the fruit takes on a nice glaze and the pastry is crisp, 30-40 minutes. Brush over any remaining honey glaze you may have left.
Serve generous warm slices with softly whipped cream.
It works well served cold as a picnic dish.
- Serves 5-6
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