Ask Lonely Planet: Sensory overload in sub-continent

The Taj Mahal in Rajasthan. Photo / Jim Eagles

We will be in Thailand in September/October this year, and as India is nearby we thought we might travel there for a couple of weeks. Other than the Taj, my wife and I have no plans about where to go or what to do; we're just looking for something different. We like the food and reasonable accommodation. Any suggestions?
- Colin & Bev Walker

Bangkok is the most popular departure point from Southeast Asia to India and you can get some pretty good fares, such as Delhi or Mumbai for around $870 or Kolkata for around $690. But check with your travel agent to see what they can link in with your fare to Thailand.

India is a huge country. You could easily spend months travelling from state to state and still not see all the major sites, cities and attractions. With just two weeks you will need to centre on a particular state or region. You've mentioned the Taj, so perhaps fly to Delhi and travel to Agra and around Rajasthan.

After a couple of days in Delhi visiting the bazaars in the Old City, the National Museum, Humayan's Tomb and the sound and light show at the historic Red Fort, catch the train to Agra and watch the play of light on the marble of the Taj Mahal and Agra Fort. Spend a day at the abandoned Mughal city of Fatehpur Sikri before taking the bus on to Jaipur (the Pink City). Make sure you leave time to explore the fairy-tale fort at Amber, as well as Jaipur's wonderful emporiums.

Your next stop should be the fascinating Muslim shrine of Khwaja Muin-ud-din Chishti at Ajmer before heading to magical Pushkar, on the desert edge.

Then it's on to Udaipur, the Venice of the East, where you'll want to spend at least a couple of days. From Udaipur you can make a day trip to the fortress and wildlife sanctuary at Kumbalgarh.

There's still time to visit Jodhpur to admire the pastel-painted houses and the magnificent Meherangarh Fort. Then it's another bus trip through the desert to the ancient fortress of Jaisalmer, then a seven-hour train trip back to Delhi.

Rajasthan is a well-travelled part of India, so there is a large range of accommodation for all budgets. Consult a good travel guide, such as Lonely Planet's Rajasthan.

Trains are far better than buses for longer and overnight trips. Check out the train search engine on the Indian Railways website or seat61.com.

Buses are fast and frequent and can be better for shorter trips. Those run by state government companies are usually the safest and most reliable.

Before travelling, make sure you read the Ministry of Foreign Affairs & Trade's (MFAT's) travel advisory for India at safetravel.govt.nz.

Andaman adventure

How easy is it to visit the Andaman Islands from the south coast of India? I'd like to make the trip there later this year, but have the residual effects of the tsunami made some areas a no-go?
- Darren Johns

The Andaman Islands were close to the epicentre of the undersea earthquake that caused the devastating 2004 tsunami. Hardest hit were the southerly Nicobar Islands (off-limits to visitors) and Little Andaman but the main Andaman island group escaped major damage.

The almost total absence of tourists during 2005, coupled with the cost and energy of repairing the damage, demoralised many islanders in some parts of the region. A visit from you (and your wallet) now would be timely.

Sitting 1000km off the east coast of India, the Andamans are home to superb, near-deserted beaches, incredible coral and marine life, an intriguing colonial past and the remnants of a Stone Age culture.

Highlights of the islands include snorkelling and diving amongst the coral reefs or cruising through the mangrove swamps on Havelock Island. The ghosts of the colonial past can be seen on Ross Island, once known as the Paris of the East, a short ferry ride

from Port Blair. Also recommended is a road trip through the jungle to the quiet coastal beaches and islands around Mayabunder and Diglipur.

Air India flies daily to Port Blair from Chennai and Kolkata (about $200 one way). For around the same price, Jet Airways flies at least once a day from Chennai, as does Air Deccan.

A boat from Chennai or Kolkata is a long journey (about 60 hours) and much less frequent but it's a lot cheaper than flying. Tickets range from $60 (basic bunk) up to $235 (luxury cabin).

Check the Shipping Corporation of India website or the Andaman & Nicobar Emerald Islands website.

Dazzling south

I am travelling to India with three friends (university students). We have a gap of about two weeks after being in Goa. What are the highlights of India's south that we would be able to fit into two weeks?
- Sam Mulgrew

Jump on the train to Mysore and be dazzled by the kaleidoscopic palace of the maharajas. This city is also famous for its silk, sandalwood and incense production.

Further south is the Ooty hill station, reached by a miniature train (sit on the left for the best views). The real attraction here, though, are the nearby hills and forest where you can trek and visit scenic tea gardens and wildlife parks.

On the Malabar Coast you're in for a real treat at Fort Cochin. This captivating island fortress echoes centuries of colonial history; the area is an unlikely blend of medieval Portugal, Holland and an English country village, with a few ancient mosques thrown in. You could try a dreamy boat cruise in the Keralan backwaters. The most popular trip is from Kollam to Alleppey ($9, eight hours).

Head east to Madurai for the historical and awe-inspiring Sri Meenakshi Temple complex and perhaps French-flavoured Puducherry on the east coast.

Be sure to read MFAT's travel advisory for India at safetravel.govt.nz.