I'm writing this column the morning after my first spin class. If you're squeamish go make a cuppa now because this won't be pretty.
I'm talking about trusting someone's "it'll be fun" advice then being locked on a stationary bike with a rock-hard seat the size of a chicken drumstick and being yelled at by a sweat-freak to pedal like the clappers for an hour.
Twelve hours later I am crippled. Swollen, chafed and bruised in places that were in better nick 12 hours after childbirth. Why didn't someone warn me? I could've worn padding or, at the very least, taped a cotton-wool-stuffed showercap to the seat.
So, because it's too painful to walk around, I am spending my day seated. The upside is that within arm's reach of my comfy chair is a selection of syrahs that I've been looking for an excuse to taste. Excellent.
I'd recently blind-tasted 74 examples for Dish magazine's inaugural syrah tasting. Fellow judges included Nick Picone, winemaker at Villa Maria in Auckland, and Cameron Douglas, New Zealand's first and only Master Sommelier. It was at that tasting I realised that despite loving syrah since my first sip, years later I still know little about the variety. So throwing a few questions around brought great info from my colleagues.
"Syrah is demanding because it's a very vigorous variety, meaning careful site selection and vine management is imperative for producing quality wine," explained Nick. "Syrah can also dramatically suffer from water and nutrition stress. It also doesn't like too much heat or excessive cold snaps of weather, things that can bring ripening to a standstill."
According to Nick, syrah needs a long growing season, favourable conditions well into April plus enough heat to fully ripen and concentrate its flavours and tannins, "but also some coolness to encourage floral aromatics and acidity".
If that isn't high maintenance enough, syrah also grows in tight bunches, making the grapes highly vulnerable to disease in times of humidity.
"New Zealand winemakers have come a long way with handling syrah," Nick added, explaining that winemakers are taking more care not to overdo tannin extraction and oak influence, and to harness, balance and create something positive from syrah's tendency to produce sulphides during fermentation.
"An advantage syrah has over Bordeaux varieties is the picking window is greater, and the range of acceptable styles is diverse and forgiving. Lighter bodied, pretty and floral wines are just as relevant as the darker, richer and more powerful wines," he said.
Since those first vines went into the ground in Hawke's Bay in 1984, our winemakers have learned to understand syrah so well that we now have a signature New Zealand expression. An expression which also manages a nod to its spiritual home in France's Rhone Valley.
"This point of difference also means there is little to no need in comparing our style to the shiraz wines from our friends in Australia," commented Cameron, "Hawke's Bay holds a commanding position, but taking big chunks out of its heels are producers on Waiheke Island."
You may also be surprised to know that good syrah has been coming from Marlborough, Waipara, Gisborne, Wairarapa, Matakana and Northland for quite a few years.
"Syrah is certainly as good as anything else this country produces," adds Nick, "and therein lies the attraction. While it challenges viticulturists and winemakers every step of the way, it's capable of producing truly outstanding wines. With increased vine age and experience, the future is extremely promising."