Wine: Rieslings to cheer about

Not long ago, I tasted an Australian riesling that was 30 years old. Eye-poppingly good it was, too.

I remember the aroma of beeswax, crushed seashells, kerosene, oatcakes and hints of honeycomb, and it slipped like a silky ribbon of toasty citrus across my palate.

I love riesling, not just because it does such a sensational job of expressing its terroir, or place, but because it makes wines which develop beautifully in the bottle over time.

The downside of this, of course, is that when young some rieslings taste thin, minerally and austere, which can turn some people sideways. However, if left to blossom for a few years they really come into their own.

The good people at Mt Beautiful, a vineyard in the Cheviot Hills, North Canterbury, gave me the opportunity to taste their rieslings dating back to 2007, to see how they developed over a few years.

MT BEAUTIFUL 2010 RIESLING

Retailing for about $24, this was brand new (my bottle hadn't even been labelled) and smelled like wild flowers, lime zest, apple skin and wet river stones.

On the palate there was definite minerality, a bit like crushed seashells, and nicely integrated acidity.

I liked the texture, which was ultra-light - almost fluffy, if such a thing can be said.

MT BEAUTIFUL 2009 RIESLING

This is already developing some deliciously lifted mandarin, lime, manuka honey and mealy notes, with a burst of Cox's orange-apple flavour and a solid seam of acidity through the mid-palate.

This wine sure has a huge future.

MT BEAUTIFUL 2008 RIESLING

A lovely straw-gold colour with attractive lime curd, honey and green apple aromas. On the palate there's gentle minerality, citrus, hints of toffee and some natural sweetness coming through.

MT BEAUTIFUL 2007 RIESLING

After five years in the bottle this still has awesome, piercing acidity while morphing into mealy, toasty characters and sexy richness. It carries a lovely, chalky texture and a tangy finish.