Mighty Mt Madeleine
Dream of embarking on an unforgettable trek in Fiordland?
Earlier this year I lost my multi-day hiking virginity, undertaking a three day guided walk on the Hollyford Track with Ngai Tahu Tourism.
It's the only major low altitude track in Fiordland National Park. Add to that the lure of well-appointed private lodges with twin share rooms, piping hot showers, flush toilets, first-rate cuisine, jet boats and chopper rides, which were just some of the all-inclusive, guaranteed frills and indulgences, to soften any qualms about physical discomfort.
Our lead guide was Justin, a gregarious 30-year-old with an easy-going, free-spirited Kiwi demeanour. He was like a walking, talking wilderness Wikipedia, with a trusting, first-hand sense of authority, knowledge and reverence for the natural realm.
Despite Fiordland's notoriety for high rainfall, the weather gods were on their best behaviour as the sun was blazing and the mercury was nudging 25C.
What a novelty to be able to quench your thirst from the gin-clear water, running freely in unmolested streams, rivers and waterfalls.
Beneath the exalted gaze of the serrated Southern Alps, our first day's assignment followed the crisp, swift blue-green waters of the Hollyford River, on a gently undulating track through native beech forest, along the valley at the base of the steep and dark-forested slopes of the Darren Mountains.
Refuge from that beaming sun soon unfurled as we walked in dappled light under the cooling shade of the vast canopy of beech and ferns.
The pace was leisurely as Justin brought to life the fascinating history, geology, botany and ecology of the Hollyford.
I learnt about onga onga, the most powerful stinging nettle in the world, and the terrifying power of toot. One stone in a toot berry will kill you.
On the flipside, Justin pointed out koromiko to us, a trusty plant remedy to tackle stomach ulcers, dysentery and water-borne illnesses.
During World War I, koromiko was sent to our troops in Europe and used as tea. I was enchanted by the tree ferns and Justin's vivid illustration of their respective genders.
The male tree ferns have nuts in their fronds. They're hard, hairy and hungry. How apt.
The female trees have a skirt, which you can sleep on to avoid getting hypothermia if you're lost.
Sections of ribbonwood and podocarp forest, liberally draped in mosses, ferns and lichens, added great variety and texture to the dominance of the silver beech, before the relatively flat track served up a short climb over Little Homer Saddle.
With an elevation of 182 metres, it was entirely manageable, after which we took in the gushing cascades of Little Homer Falls ahead of the day's triumphant finish line of Pyke Lodge.
Hollyford Track
The Hollyford Track is a three day easy-paced walk, across 43km, from the mountains to the sea.
The walk is suitable for all ages - it's particularly popular with 40 to 70-year-olds. This is 'glamping', or glamorous tramping, so you carry little and are well catered to.
Expert guides, top-knotch cuisine, comfortable lodges with private bedrooms, transport from Queenstown or Te Anau, day packs and rain jackets are included in the price.
Hikers carry a light pack with clothing and lunch on their first day and thereafter an even lighter day pack.
A maximum number of 16 guests provides for a fabulously personal experience. The guided walk departs every second day from mid-October to late April. Book well in advance! For more information www.hollyfordtrack.com