Numerous lovers, bisexual liaisons, a drug habit and an affair with a German World War II spy. The details of Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel's life make excellent fodder for a rip-roaring drama. But biographer Lisa Chaney treats the world-famouscouturier with utmost respect in a measured, well-researched account in Chanel: An Intimate Life, rather than a sensationalised, money-spinning version of the truth.
There's no escaping Chanel's place in fashion history. With incredible foresight, style and fortitude, she was a pioneer in dressing modern women. She helped release women from corsets and made short hair possible. She raised hemlines, gave birth to practical women's sportswear and made simplicity chic.
Fashion, or rather Chanel's place in it, surprisingly isn't the focus of An Intimate Life. Chaney instead is bent on capturing Chanel the person. It's not an easy task as Chanel was very careful about constructing her image. She destroyed much of the documentation and attempted to reshape her impoverished, shameful beginnings throughout her life.
Chaney seems to have enjoyed the challenge of piecing together the known facts. The biography features quotes from the usual suspects, but because of Chaney's comprehensive research, it's also peppered with comments by obscure acquaintances, fellow modernists and contemporary media.
An Intimate Life is enriched by the photographs. Again, it's the people in Chanel's life, rather than fashion, that form the central theme.
Chaney shows her understanding of the haut monde by going to great lengths to explain the couturier's friendships with artists, dancers and high-society folk.
The name "Coco Chanel" today is a brand, image and style. But Chaney's biography looks at the woman behind the fake pearls and jersey suits. We glimpse the real Chanel, the one who was at once headstrong and practical, and also insecure, seductive and terrified of being alone.
