From new, hopping wine bars to summery strawberries, these were the most memorable dishes and snacks we tried this October (in Auckland and beyond).
This month, the Viva team enjoyed dishes with plenty of spring produce and visited a couple of exciting new openings.
Drinks and snacks, $37, at
Halloween eve marked the official launch of The Frog, a new wine bar on Karangahape Rd, though the spot has been quietly open for a few evenings over the last couple of weeks. It is a residency wine bar, which will welcome guest chefs and winemakers behind the counter for an-ever refreshing menu.
As of opening, The Frog boasts a tight but considered wine and beer list made up of local and independent labels (Black Estate and Urbanaut are among them). We tried a heavy, fruity chilled red, as well as a not-too-sweet non-alcoholic option – a light and botanical mixture made in-house, that is also served with a bundle of herbs. Right now, the bar snacks include warm olives, hot nuts, and vegan Kiwi onion dip served with a helping of chips. The latter is a moreish and easy plate to share for a snack before dinner further down the strip (the dip is made with silken tofu and finished with fried shallots).
The Frog has filled the spot once occupied by Roses. Ophelia Harradine Bayly and Karl have now moved on to Blue in Ponsonby, where they are continuing their precise and playful plating of seasonal fare.
The new spot is run by Tane Williams, previously of Bestie cafe, and the crowd that showed up to support on opening featured plenty of familiar faces from Karangahape Rd.
Inside, it’s a snug but cosy fit-out. Lighting is low, with white T-shirts doubling as lampshades. The walls, a dark green, enclose a couple of tables tucked up the back, complete with corduroy booth seating, mirrored wall hangings and aquatic flourishes.
It will make a comforting spot in the colder months. But it’s likely the community that will frequent this wine bar will covet the seats outside this summer. The seating allows patrons to spill across the footpath – it’s going to buzz loudly in the heights of summer. Mind the bike lane. – Madeleine Crutchley
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Advertise with NZME.454 Karangahape Rd, central Auckland
Tasting menu at Kurētā
The new restaurant at the JW Marriott Auckland officially opens on November 4 but I had a sneak media preview yesterday. Kurētā offers Japanese omakase dining – essentially a trust-the-chef experience. And trust him you should – Chef Aki has decades of fine-dining experience, beginning his career in Tokyo aged 18. Formerly at Auckland’s Grand Millennium, he’s now taking the helm at Kurētā.
Only 30 guests per night can book in for the intimate, interactive dinner experience, with the 10-course tasting menu championing the best ingredients from NZ and Japan. Dry-aged fish, wagyu beef, tuna, truffle cream, scallops, miso soup, matcha cheesecake, yuzu sake ... every dish was delicately balanced and full of flavour. Check it out this summer, it’s set to be one of the hottest new openings in the city. – Stephanie Holmes
22/26 Albert Street, Auckland Central
Lunch at Lilian
An amble around Frieda Margolis’ vintage market was the precursor to a long birthday lunch at Lilian (agonising over excellent vintage and works from local jewellers certainly stirred appetites). Our hungry party gathered around small sharing plates to refuel before further festivities.
The puffy, woodfired bread is such an excellent example of how to launch into a shared meal – deflating the speckled sphere creates a sense of theatre for everyone to “ooh” over (a nice gesture when you’re gathering with a group that is long overdue a catch-up or is meeting for the first time). We added the anchovy and caramelised butter to our order and applied liberally. Among the other dishes we split between us, I particularly enjoyed the eggplant, served with macadamia and sweet and sour agrodolce sauce, and the market fish, flanked by mussels and leeks. Cuts of parmesan-showered baby cos also supplied refreshing crunch among all those rich flavours.
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Advertise with NZME.We were ordering a little sporadically from the menu, so we got to try a bite of a good portion of their Italian-ish dishes. In future, I would probably opt for the express lunch menu Lilian offers from midday to 4pm, Wednesday to Friday. It gives up to eight people a more structured approach to sharing (and features plenty of options for various dietaries). – Madeleine Crutchley
472 Richmond Rd, Grey Lynn
Hainanese chicken, $32.80 at Petaling Malaysian
I once flew almost 11 hours on a press trip to a vacuum-cleaner production factory just so I could eat hawker centre Hainanese chicken rice. It’s not the world’s most visually appealing dish, but there’s something about that succulent, poached flesh and the fiery but perfectly balanced garlic-chilli-ginger sauce that has earned it a forever place on my comfort food cravings list. Fortunately, Dominion Rd’s Petaling Malaysian (where half a chicken cost us $32.80) was a more manageable Uber ride away. – Kim Knight
248A Dominion Rd, Mount Eden
Duck dinner for two, $95 at The French Cafe
The French Cafe’s Wednesday/Thursday duck special is not quite as cheap as (duck fat?) chips but, at $95 for two, it’s surely the best fine-dining deal in town. The bird was served two ways (burnished, crispy breast and aromatic croquettes of braised thigh) with jus, bread rolls, potato churros and an elegant, endive-forward salad. It takes willpower to resist adding snacks and dessert (I highly recommend the potato and truffle doughnut) but the deal does allow BYO wine at $25 per bottle corkage – excellent news for a gifted bottle of Trinity Hill Homage syrah that was otherwise destined to slum it with a homemade spag bol. We booked a table for four, declared everything spectacular, and wondered why we don’t get out more often on a weeknight. – Kim Knight
Summer at The French Cafe...
Sid Sahrawat and team are also celebrating seasonal produce in their fine dining kitchen. At a recent media lunch, there were servings of celeriac, asparagus and peas. However, dessert was the real showstopper: fresh strawberries served with vanilla panna cotta with white chocolate and dried lychee. You’ll likely find similar flavours at their upcoming summer celebration on November 13, which will include canapés and a four-course menu with some produce from their local community garden ($140 per person). – Madeleine Crutchley
210 Symonds St, Eden Terrace, Auckland
Seasoned fries with burger sauce dip, $12 from Takapuna Surf Club
A dining spot that’s chic, delicious, immaculately fitted out and kid-friendly is near impossible to find in Tāmaki Makaurau. So, when Takapuna Surf Club recently opened, I crossed my fingers that a saviour of parental dining had finally arrived. I headed there on a Wednesday afternoon with friends and my 6-year-old, and the atmosphere was buzzing, but not overwhelming. The ultimate test of any good dining establishment, however, is its fries. While the portion is closer to a single serve (about 20 decent fries in a bowl), they were absolutely packed with flavour from their special paprika mix seasoning and perfectly crunchy with a fluffy interior. Grateful to move on from Auckland’s aioli obsession, I found their sauce was somewhere between a burger sauce and a thousand island, with a tasty dill addition and made the perfect accompaniment to their spicy peach margarita. – Jenni Mortimer
111 Hurstmere Rd, Takapuna
Beyond Auckland
Plates felt summery throughout October.
Tomato and burrata salad, $31.50, at McLeod’s Pizza Barn & Brewery in Waipū
McLeod’s has been an institution for locals and those travelling north of Auckland for over 20 years. The summer hot spot is well known for its pizza menu, but on a recent trip up north, it was their tomato and burrata salad that had me planning a return visit. The salad is packed full of multi-coloured heirloom tomatoes, crispy chorizo, broccolini, artichokes and burrata with nduja, basil pesto and croutons adorning it. It was flavoursome, fresh and so sizeable I left with a takeaway box under my arm. The perfect pairing to a pizza, beer and classic Kiwi vibe. – Jenni Mortimer
2 Cove Rd, Waipū
Seedy sourdough, $9.60, from Breadhead, Tauranga
One of my biggest indulgences on a near weekly basis is a loaf of sourdough. Often, I’ll scour shelves for near-stale crusts, cut slices very thin and freeze them to guarantee a loaf goes the distance (might I recommend FoodPrint for others who share this habit).
This meant, on a recent trip to see loved ones in Tauranga, I was very excited to return to be tasked with fetching loaves for lunch from Breadhead. The bakery specialises in sourdough (other concoctions include miso tahini, wholegrain rye and rosemary), but also boasts an extensive range of breads and seasonally-inspired pastries. The seeded loaf is a favourite, with a coating of sesame supplying generous crunch.
The bakers are also in expansion mode, currently renovating to open a new spot at Toi Tauranga Art Gallery.
Next time I pay a visit, I plan to pick up their “weird about bread” T-shirts – a playful addition to my bargain bin scouring. – Madeleine Crutchley
2a Saint John St, Tauranga
Strawberries from Tauranga Farmers Market
If you’re in Tauranga and after a gentle Saturday morning wander, consider this relaxed market at the local primary school. Often local bands score the marketplace, making it a pleasant place to open sleepy eyes. There are stalls with local produce, of course, but also others hawking olive oils, locally brewed kombucha, bouquets and breakfast options.
For my last visit, I was most excited about an ice cream container full of strawberries. ‘Tis the season (so check your local markets). – Madeleine Crutchley
7.45am to midday, 31 Fifth Ave, Tauranga
Little treats
This month, we wanted everything super sweet.
Sin-in-a-bun, $9.90 from Hillhouse Cafe
I’d rather watch paint dry than queue for coffee, which might be why it has taken me 18 months to sample Hillhouse Cafe’s infamous “sin-in-a-bun”. Weekend brunch crowds have swamped the cafe since its shift into the Pah Homestead but, at 1pm on a recent Friday, I lucked out – a veranda table with a view of the Arts House Trust sculpture garden and an extra dollop of cream-cheese icing on a $9.90 brioche scroll that absolutely and totally deserves its “iconic” status. – Kim Knight
72 Hillsborough Rd, Hillsborough, Auckland
Matcha ice cream, $6, from Tanuki’s Cave
Tanuki’s Cave has long offered shelter from the elements. Our group of five descended below street level after a hectic evening in the centre city, seeking somewhere cosy to sit, sip and chat. We were originally looking for pints, but, by the end of our stay, we wanted something sweeter. The dark matcha ice cream was topped with a childlike combination of whipped cream, chocolate fingers and a maraschino cherry. The ultra-sweet dessert was a delightful way to close the night (and would be worth tacking on to an order of yakitori). – Madeleine Crutchley
319B Queen St, central Auckland
Toppa ice cream, $4
They’re back! First launched in 1954, Tip Top has brought back the Toppa as a celebration of its 90th year in business (the ice blocks were discontinued in 2014). I bought one after a spicy meal at New Flavour and it was an ideal way to finish the night. Icy, creamy and longer-lasting than a Fruju – I’ll likely be among those whining when it’s taken out of stores again. – Madeleine Crutchley
Gifted
Chocolate chip cookies from Levain Bakery (4 for $US32)
Levain cookies are not about sweetness. They are about merit. About the portion, about the balance between crispy edge and the gooey centre, about the hands pressed into the dough as proof these were baked by mortals.
I still fantasise about the two chip chocolate chip. I don’t know if it’s because it was the best chocolate chip cookie I’ve had, or because Levain cookies aren’t sold in NZ (I got them as a gift from Air NZ, who partnered with Door Dash to deliver them directly from NY) so I already knew this was a rare moment. But I’m not kidding.
All the chocolate chips. The massive size. The buttery warmth. The smell. Oh my god.
I tried the other classics too, like the chocolate chip walnut, dark chocolate chip and the oatmeal raisin. I was happy I did. Still, the two chip chocolate chip dominates my hedonistic cookie (kooky?) fever dreams. – Varsha Anjali
(Note: If you’re not planning a trip to NYC anytime soon, consider satiating cravings at home or visiting new-ish open Coco Lane on High St – the cookies here rival the height and chunk of these faraway delicacies.)
What was the best meal you ate in October? Email Viva@nzherald.co.nz and let us know.
More to savour
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