Ask The Beauty Editor: How Can I Wear Subtle Makeup As A Man?

One male reader writes in with a hot question on the best way to wear natural makeup.

Dear Ash,

My dark under-eye circles are starting to get to me, but I’m not sure about the best way to cover them up without it looking obvious. I’m a 27-year-old man and I’ve never worn makeup before, but I’m open to trying something subtle for my under-eyes or to conceal blemishes.

Where should I start?

Thanks,

Done With Dark Circles

Dear Done With Dark Circles,

Makeup is for everyone – gendered or not – and there’s certainly a suite of products you can try to create a natural, radiant finish that helps you look more awake, not overdone.

But if you’re searching for inspiration from someone who always looks immaculate, look no further than Grayson Coutts’ Instagram feed.

As one of the country’s top male makeup artists, Grayson isn’t afraid to share the product he uses personally on social media, adding he’s excited for men’s makeup to become more prominent in the future.

“There’s nothing more attractive than someone confident enough to take pride in their appearance, and that includes their grooming. There’s no difference between using a skin tint and running a product through your hair or spraying a fragrance. It’s all grooming,” he says.

“Once we move beyond ‘this is only for men’ or ‘this is only for women’, we allow people the freedom to explore and enjoy what feels right for them. Even small adjustments to your appearance can make a big difference in how you feel. That’s a future I’m very excited to be part of.”

Below, Grayson shares his tips on how to create a natural-looking beat for first-time makeup users.

ASHLEIGH COMETTI: What is your personal makeup philosophy?

GRAYSON COUTTS: Makeup should never feel like a chore or something that’s obligatory; it’s there for anyone and everyone to enjoy, if they’d like to, and to whatever degree they feel drawn to. My own makeup philosophy is really simple: I want to look more awake, add a little definition to my features, and improve the overall appearance of my skin. I’m more than happy to share any products I like with my followers, as I know how difficult it can be to find what you need in the overwhelmingly vast world of makeup today.

AC: What advice would you share with a male client who’s looking to start with a very natural, undetectable makeup look?

GC: The most important place to start is with great skincare. The better the condition of your skin, the better makeup will look on top. Make sure your skin is properly cleansed and hydrated for your skin type, and exfoliate gently once or twice a week.

For makeup, the easiest product to begin with is a skin tint, which is like a tinted moisturiser. It’s so sheer it’s virtually traceless. Just warm a little in your hands and press it into the exposed skin of your face and neck. Next, apply a concealer under the eyes and over any blemishes using your ring finger to gently tap in a very small amount. Finally, brush your brows neatly into place. You can trim any longer hairs if needed, or use a clear brow gel for extra hold.

Left to right: Sisley Phyto Hydra Teint Beautifying Tinted Moisturiser SPF15, $167; BareMinerals Original Liquid Mineral Concealer, $56; Benefit Cosmetics 24-Hr Brow Setter Invisible Brow Gel, $51.

AC: Have you seen a shift in preference towards men wearing makeup in recent years? If so, what do you attribute that to?

GC: I think men are definitely becoming more comfortable with looking after their appearance and taking an interest in personal grooming. The increase in men using social media, and therefore, even somewhat inadvertently engaging in skincare and makeup education, and the de-gendering of beauty have all played a role in opening up makeup to a wider audience. Most men know to a degree what certain makeup products are and generally what they do and many are happy to join in the fun.

AC: How does makeup application differ for men – for example, applying makeup around stubble or facial hair?

GC: Men’s skin is typically thicker, more textured, and tends to be oilier than women’s skin, which can mean enlarged pores or more visible texture. Around facial hair, be especially careful not to apply foundation or concealer directly into the stubble – it’ll catch and look obvious.

Instead, gently blend your base products toward the edges of the facial hair so they fade out naturally before meeting the hairline.

Where open enlarged pores are a particular problem, a targeted skin primer applied under any makeup will help to reduce their appearance. You can also find anti-shine products that have no tint or colour to them, but they absorb oil and so help to keep any unwanted shine at bay throughout the day.

AC: What’s your top tip for disguising dark circles or blemishes without looking heavy, cakey, or obvious?

GC: There are really only three main things that can go wrong: bad colour match, too much product, or not enough hydration. Start by hydrating the under-eye area with a good eye cream. Then lightly stipple on a small amount of concealer using your fingertip or a makeup sponge, focusing on the discoloured area (primarily the inner half of the under-eye). It doesn’t need to fully erase the darkness, just soften and lift the depth in tone a little.

For the colour, choose a shade no more than one tone lighter than your skin, ideally with a warm, peachy undertone to counteract any blue or purple hues.

AC: How can male readers find the right shade to suit their skin tone? Do you have any advice for someone who’s too embarrassed to get matched at a makeup counter?

GC: It can definitely be overwhelming walking into a makeup store when you’re not sure what you’re looking for. I’d suggest first browsing online at what the store carries and choosing a couple of brands with good reviews. Then go in with a plan and ask the makeup artist if you can take home a few samples to test in the comfort of your own home.

When testing, apply a stripe of each colour to your cheek and compare them in natural light (not bathroom lighting). The right shade should disappear into your skin. If it looks orange or grey, the undertone is wrong. If it looks too pale or too dark, it’s the wrong depth. Try to find one that pretty much disappears into your skin.

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