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Opinion: Fashion Weeks have long been indelible fixtures on the fashion calendar since their inception in New York in 1943. Serving as a pedestal for designers to exhibit their artistry and influence upcoming trends, they were traditionally industry affairs, where collections were showcased to buyers and media in advance of upcoming retail seasons. However, the relevance of the traditional Fashion Week format has come under scrutiny in recent years, leading us to question whether it still holds sway in today’s rapidly evolving landscape.
Today, Fashion Weeks are no longer solely trade events, instead they’ve become social extravaganzas. Influencers and celebrities are high on the invite lists, and members of the public can buy tickets for select shows. And in this consumer-centric, digital age, you can just witness the sea of phones in a runway show’s audience to understand social media’s profound impact on the business of selling clothes and instigating trends.
Consumers have adopted a “see now, buy now” mentality, also attributed to the speed at which fast-fashion giants can replicate a runway design and mass-produce it for sale. This has prompted many designers to pivot to in-season shows, allowing consumers to buy runway garments online and in-store immediately after a show.
Commentators also ask if today’s Fashion Weeks are even about the clothes. Moments are manufactured not for the runway but for Instagram or TikTok, like the viral video of model Bella Hadid being sprayed with liquid fibre to form a dress at Coperni’s Spring/Summer 2023 show in Paris, to models crowd-surfing at the Sunnei Fall/Winter 2023 show in Milan.
But these designers don’t need to rely on a Fashion Week show to go viral. Just take the 3D-rendered video of giant versions of Jacquemus’ Le Bambino bags on wheels, driving through the streets of Paris last April. This marketing stunt, completely independent of Fashion Week, arguably made a bigger splash than any traditional catwalk show.
The evolution of Aotearoa’s Fashion Week and the local fashion landscape has mirrored these international patterns. Aotearoa’s inaugural Fashion Week in October 2001 was an event for the industry, backed by the Labour-Alliance government and aimed at promoting local designers to international export markets. It then evolved into a consumer-facing event, with celebrity catwalks (think rugby players in Jockey underwear) and novelty activations, like Zambesi sending models down the escalators of Auckland’s Central City Library in 2019. Fast forward to 2023, and after a three-year hiatus due to the Covid-19 pandemic, New Zealand Fashion Week: Kahuria (NZFW) has returned this week.
Under new ownership, NZFW has had a fresh rebrand. It’s evident that this year’s organisers are ramping up their digital marketing strategy, even debuting a TikTok account. They’ve also invited a contingent of industry players from across the ditch, including media and department store buyers eager to discover fresh new labels.
Despite this revival, there are challenges for Kiwi designers who must weigh the costs of producing a Fashion Week show and achieving a return on investment. Designers like Wynn Hamlyn and Maggie Marilyn have gravitated towards showing at Australian Fashion Week. Big names like Karen Walker and Trelise Cooper have shunned Fashion Weeks altogether, focusing on building online direct-to-consumer channels and investing in other marketing activities.
In an era where fashion transcends clothing and reflects societal shifts, it remains to be seen whether the general public will connect with this year’s Fashion Week amid a cost-of-living crisis. As society embraces a more pared-back approach to dressing, the over-the-top glamour traditionally favoured on the catwalks has given way to androgyny, stealth wealth and quiet luxury.
However, NZFW remains a significant event on Aotearoa’s cultural calendar and is crucial for emerging creatives’ futures. Initiatives such as Viva Next Gen and Miromoda Showcase offer invaluable platforms for emerging and Māori designers to debut their wares. NZFW is also a launching pad for young models who can refine their catwalk skills and for hair and makeup professionals to showcase their creativity.
This year’s NZFW ambassadors are also a testament to the possibilities the fashion industry can offer. Stylist Sammy Salsa and writer and fashionista Jess Molina have each charted a unique path in the local fashion scene, serving as authentic and relatable role models for the next generation of fashion industry players.
To stay relevant amid the dynamic fashion landscape, NZFW must continue to evolve. Local support plays a part in its longevity too. If you have the means to do so, purchasing a ticket to NZFW is a tangible, powerful way to show your support for the talented creatives. There’s also something to be said about the allure of a live runway. Like witnessing art in person, a Fashion Week show offers an unparalleled experience—the anticipation, the atmosphere, the music, and the chance to see garments in their full glory up close.
New Zealand Fashion Week 2023: Kahuria runs from 29 August to 2 September. View the schedule and purchase your tickets at nzfashionweek.com.
