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Home / The Listener / Life

Wine guide: Latest releases from legendary NZ stable Villa Maria

By Michael Cooper
New Zealand Listener·
30 Jun, 2023 05:00 PM2 mins to read

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Vines at Seddon, origin of Vidal Reserve Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Photo / Supplied

Vines at Seddon, origin of Vidal Reserve Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Photo / Supplied

It will soon be two years since Indevin NZ completed its purchase of Villa Maria Estate, after the company’s sole shareholder, FFWL Ltd – controlled by Sir George Fistonich – was placed in receivership. Indevin had earlier specialised in growing grapes and making wines for giant overseas retailers, such as Waitrose and Tesco supermarkets in the UK, to market under their own brands.

The Villa Maria stable it acquired also included the Esk Valley, Vidal and Thornbury brands. I recently tasted a couple of dozen new releases and here is my pick of the bunch in terms of their value for money.

Villa Maria Reserve Marlborough Pinot Gris 2021

★★★★★

Highly fragrant, this classy Awatere Valley wine was fermented in tanks and old oak barrels. Full-bodied, rich and rounded, it has concentrated, ripe peach and pear flavours, gentle acidity and an off-dry, harmonious finish. A top buy. (14% alc/vol) $25

Esk Valley Artisanal Collection Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2021

★★★★½

This full-coloured red was aged for 17 months in French oak casks. Strongly varietal, it has excellent density of ripe plum and black-pepper flavours, savoury notes adding complexity, and lots of youthful vigour. (13% alc/vol) $20-$25

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Villa Maria Cellar Selection Marlborough Pinot Gris 2022

★★★★

Discover more

Wine guide: Best NZ chardonnays for a golden autumn weekend

07 Apr 12:00 AM

Wine guide: The best rosés for the long weekend

02 Feb 04:00 PM

Invitingly scented, this regional blend was aged on its yeast lees. Full-bodied, it is vibrantly fruity, with fresh peach, lychee and spice flavours, a sliver of sweetness, lively acidity and lots of drink-young appeal. (13.5% alc/vol) $19

Villa Maria Earth Garden Hawke’s Bay Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

★★★★

Certified organic, this deeply coloured red is a merlot-predominant blend, with 16% cabernet sauvignon. Full of drink-young charm, it is mouthfilling, with strong plum, berry and spice flavours to the fore, a hint of blackcurrants, savoury notes adding a touch of complexity, supple tannins and a smooth finish. (14% alc/vol) $20-$25

Thornbury Gisborne Chardonnay 2022

★★★½

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Full-bodied and lively, this is a “fruit-driven” (meaning not obviously oaky) chardonnay style, with plenty of fresh, peachy, slightly toasty flavour. It’s already drinking well. (13% alc/vol) $15

Wine of the week

Vidal Reserve Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2022

★★★★½

This punchy, youthful wine was grown in the Wairau and Awatere valleys and matured on its yeast lees. Pale lemon/green, it is mouthfilling and vibrantly fruity, with strong, ripe, tropical-fruit flavours to the fore, a distinct touch of complexity, and a crisp, dry, lingering finish. (13% alc/vol) $20

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