Are Marlborough’s sauvignon blancs almost identical, in terms of their aromas and flavours? No way, insist the members of Appellation Marlborough Wine, a body that includes about a third of the region’s winegrowers. “Producers of very large volume, region-wide blends have engendered a widespread belief that all our sauvignon blanc wines taste the same. This is not the case.”
As a result, it has produced a beautiful, detailed Wine Map of Marlborough. “Marlborough’s hugely diverse soils, microclimates and ultimately, terroirs, mean producers can craft wildly different expressions of sauvignon blanc here,” says Matt Thomson, of Blank Canvas Wines. “The vision is that wine enthusiasts will be able to use the map to pinpoint the subregional style they desire, whether that be the lemongrass-accented Blind River, passionfruit and blackcurrant-driven Dillons Point, or elderflower and white currant expression of Conders Bend. And there are many more.”
Appellation Marlborough Wine was established in 2018 to protect the “integrity, authenticity and brand value” of the region’s wines. The new map challenges the status quo. The national organisation, New Zealand Winegrowers, and the overall regional body, Wine Marlborough, depict Marlborough as having three major subregions – the Wairau Valley, the Southern Valleys and the Awatere Valley (or Awatere and South).
By contrast, the map divides Marlborough into three “macro subregions” (Wairau; Awatere and Blind River; and Southern Coast), seven “meso subregions” (for instance, lower Wairau, inland Awatere), and 18 “micro subregions” (such as Rapaura, Dashwood). Some subregions have been marked on the map by location, without borders, in the expectation that future debates will define where those borders lie.
The most striking change is the decision to classify the Southern Valleys, on the south side of the Wairau Valley, within the Wairau macro subregion. Why the change? The five southern valleys (Waihopai, Ōmaka, Brancott, Benmorven, Taylor) are all tributaries of the Wairau Valley.
The map has no legal standing but is seen by Appellation Marlborough Wine as a first step in assembling evidence to eventually submit to the Intellectual Property Office of New Zealand, to create official GIs (geographical indications).
Rightly ambitious, these Marlborough producers have taken their lead from major European regions, which defined their land by geography and similarity of wine styles. The printed maps, in three different sizes ($69-$130), and a digital version ($25), are on sale now.
Wine of the week
Clos Henri Otira Single Vineyard Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2022
★★★★★
This partly barrel-fermented wine was estate-grown in stony, glacial soils. Weighty, complex and richly flavoured, with a resounding finish, it is classy and full of personality. (13.5% alc/vol) $36
