Wine grown on Waiheke, the lovely, sprawling island in Auckland’s Hauraki Gulf, is among the most expensive in the country. The hilly terrain means the vineyards are small, labour intensive and costly to run, and transport costs are heavy. High land prices are a major hurdle for newcomers. Inevitably, the wines are expensive, but the best rank among the greatest in New Zealand.
Awaroa Waiheke Island Redemption 2022
★★★★★
A top red for the cellar, this is a youthful, “super reserve” blend of cabernet sauvignon (80%), merlot (10%) and malbec (10%). Estate-grown at the head of the Awaawaroa Valley in the centre of the island, it was hand-harvested and matured in French oak barriques (80% new). Dark and powerful, it has deep, vibrant, blackcurrant and spice flavours, that are lush but not heavy. A very classy, concentrated and finely structured red, it should flourish for 10-20 years. (14.5% alc/vol) $150
Destiny Bay Destinae 2021
★★★★★
From the south side of the island, near Rocky Bay, this classy, harmonious red is a blend of five classic Bordeaux varieties – cabernet sauvignon (37%), merlot (33%), cabernet franc (14%), malbec (12%) and petit verdot (4%). Estate-grown and matured for a year in French and American oak barrels, it is deeply coloured, fragrant, mouthfilling and supple. It has rich, beautifully ripe blackcurrant, plum and spice flavours, gently seasoned with nutty oak. Already highly drinkable, it is a vigorous, savoury red, likely to be at its best 2026+. (14.5% alc/vol) $190
Passage Rock Reserve Waiheke Island Viognier 2023
★★★★★
This powerful dry white wine was estate-grown on the island’s southeast coast, on a sunny, sheltered site slightly above the estuary at Te Matuku Bay. Barrel-aged, it is mouthfilling, sweet-fruited and savoury, with generous, peachy flavours, a hint of apricot, gentle spicy and toasty notes, excellent complexity and a slightly oily texture. Still youthful, it should be at its best 2025+. (14% alc/vol) $50
Wine of the week
Mission Jewelstone Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2021
★★★★★
This highly refined, very age-worthy Hawke’s Bay red was harvested from vines approaching 20 years of age and matured in French oak casks. Dark and purple-flushed, with a floral, spicy bouquet, it is mouthfilling and savoury, with deep plum and black pepper flavours showing excellent ripeness and density, a hint of dark chocolate, and a finely structured finish. Best drinking 2028+. (13.5% alc/vol) $40
