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Home / The Listener / Life

Weekend wine guide: Experience counts

By Michael Cooper
New Zealand Listener·
14 Jun, 2024 12:56 AM3 mins to read

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The Babich family has been making wine in New Zealand since 1916, making their winery New Zealand’s most experienced family-owned one. Photo / Getty Images

The Babich family has been making wine in New Zealand since 1916, making their winery New Zealand’s most experienced family-owned one. Photo / Getty Images

Babich promotes itself as “New Zealand’s most experienced family-owned winery”, and who would argue with that? In 1910, aged 14, Josip (Joe) Babich left Dalmatia to join his brothers in the gumfields of the Far North. His first wine was produced in 1916.

West Auckland-based, it has extensive vineyards in Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay and large wineries in Henderson and Marlborough. The company is headed by two of Josip’s grandsons, CEO David Babich and André Babich, whose title is principal, with a focus on key projects across the business. The wines typically offer good value and are skilfully crafted, with an emphasis on harmony, delicacy, and finesse, rather than instant impact or boldness. Head winemaker Adam Hazeldine joined Babich in 1996.

Babich Winemakers’ Reserve Barrel Fermented Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2023

★★★★★

Still unfolding, this classy wine was fermented and matured in French oak casks of varying sizes. Bright, light yellow/green and with a fragrant, complex bouquet, it is mouthfilling and sweet-fruited. It has rich, ripe fruit flavours, savoury notes, finely integrated oak, gentle acidity and a dry, persistent finish. Best drinking mid-2025+. (13.5% alc/vol) $35

Babich Marlborough Pinot Gris 2023

★★★★

This full-bodied wine was mostly handled in stainless steel tanks; 7% of the blend was barrel-fermented to add richness and complexity. It offers good depth of vibrant, peachy, gently spicy flavours and is dryish, savoury and very harmonious. Drink now or cellar. (13.6% alc/vol) $16-$20

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Babich Family Estates Organic Marlborough Albarino 2023

★★★★½

Discover more

Weekend wine guide: Island time

08 Jun 12:30 AM

Regal riesling: Is it the best white-wine variety in the world?

31 May 12:00 AM

California bound: US wines gaining ground on NZ shelves

24 May 12:00 AM

Weekend wine guide: A promising vintage

17 May 12:00 AM

This organically certified wine was estate-grown in the Wairau Valley, tank-fermented and aged on its yeast lees for four months. Made in a dry style, it is mouthfilling and has fresh, generous, peachy, slightly spicy flavours that are crisp, vigorous and lingering. Best drinking mid-2025+. (14% alc/vol) $25

Babich Irongate Gimblett Gravels Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc 2018

★★★★★

Estate-grown in the Irongate Vineyard in the Gimblett Gravels, this is a refined Hawke’s Bay blend of cabernet sauvignon (43%), merlot (40%) and cabernet franc (17%). Matured for more than a year in French oak barriques, it is deeply coloured, mouthfilling, savoury and firm. It has strong, ripe blackcurrant, plum and spice flavours seasoned with nutty oak and excellent backbone and vigour. Best drinking 2026+. (13.5% alc/vol) $37-$45

Wine of the week

Babich Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2023

★★★★

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Fresh and vigorous, this is a medium- to full-bodied, ripely scented wine. It has good intensity of passionfruit and lime flavours. Lees-ageing notes add a touch of complexity, appetising acidity, and give it a dry, structured finish. Drink now-2025. (12.5% alc/vol) $20

Michael Cooper worked at Babich Wines from 1975-90.

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