Tropical Cyclone Gabrielle devastated the North Island from February 12-16, 2023. In Hawke’s Bay, our second-largest wine region, the cyclone destroyed about 25% of the harvest. After a generally wet and cool growing season, 2023 was predicted to yield aromatic Hawke’s Bay wines with fresh acidity and moderate alcohol levels.
Many of the region’s top chardonnays from the 2023 vintage are now on the shelves. Although leaner and crisper than the chardonnays from warmer, drier seasons, they are typically vibrant and vigorous, and the top wines offer excellent drinking over the next two or three years.
In a recent tasting, these 2023 chardonnays stood out for their quality and/or value.
AC Reserve Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2023
★★★★★
Made by Alwyn Corban and his son, Abraham, this impressive wine was hand-picked from vines planted in 2004 “high on the western face of Te Mata Peak”, and fermented and matured for 15 months in French oak barriques (50% new). Bright, light yellow/green, it is weighty and fleshy, vibrant and savoury, with concentrated, ripe stonefruit flavours, mealy and toasty notes adding excellent complexity, and a very rich, harmonious finish. Already delicious, it’s ageworthy, too. (13.5% alc/vol) $45
Askerne Reserve Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2023
★★★★½
This estate-grown wine was hand-picked at Havelock North and fermented and lees-aged for 10 months in French oak barrels (42% new). It is mouthfilling and fleshy, with strong, fresh, stonefruit flavours, gently seasoned with toasty oak, balanced acidity and excellent vigour and harmony. (14% alc/vol) $37
Bilancia Kaikora Vineyard Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2023
★★★★★
Grown in Central Hawke’s Bay, this hand-picked wine was fermented and aged for 11 months in French oak barriques. Elegant and youthful, it is complex, savoury and tightly structured, with strong yet delicate, citrusy, peachy, mealy flavours gently seasoned with oak, and a lingering finish. A refined, vibrant wine, it has a distinctly “cool climate” feel. (13% alc/vol) $55
Cuvar Iris Collection Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2023
★★★★
This generous, highly approachable wine was grown in the Gimblett Gravels (65%) and at Bay View (35%), hand-harvested, and fermented in stainless-steel tanks and seasoned oak barriques. Fresh and full-bodied, it has generous, ripe, peachy flavours, gentle toasty notes adding complexity and a dry, slightly creamy finish. (13.5% alc/vol) $29
Wine of the week
Alchemy Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2023
★★★★★
This stylish, youthful, single-vineyard wine was hand-harvested at Mangatahi and fermented and lees-aged for nine months in French oak casks (25% new). Full-bodied and fresh, it has strong, citrusy, peachy flavours, gentle mealy and toasty characters, a slightly smoky streak and excellent complexity. Savoury, with a very persistent finish, it’s well worth cellaring. (13% alc/vol) $34
