Thomas More’s Utopia told in the 16th century of an island of vineyards and wine where “all things begin little by little to wax pleasant. The air soft, temperate and gentle. The ground covered with green grass. Less wildness in the beasts.” Over 500 years later, his flight of the imagination is a perfect fit for the lovely, sprawling, mostly red wine-producing island of Waiheke, in Auckland’s Hauraki Gulf.
Acclaimed since the early 1980s for its blends of cabernet sauvignon and merlot, Waiheke is also the source of distinguished syrahs and chardonnays. The hilly terrain means the vineyards are small and costly to run. Inevitably, the wines are high-priced, but the best are brilliant, as shown by these current releases from Passage Rock and Frenchmans Hill Estate.
Frenchmans Hill Estate Waiheke Island Expatrius Syrah 2015
★★★★★
Estate-grown at the base of the Te Whau Peninsula, this is a terrific red. Dark and sturdy, with dense blackcurrant, red berry, spice and nut flavours, it shows excellent complexity and harmony, and should mature well for 20 years. (14.2% alc/vol) $125
Frenchmans Hill Estate Waiheke Island Rock Earth Syrah 2015
★★★★★
This rare, single-vineyard red has great personality. Deeply coloured, it is highly concentrated, with blackcurrant, plum and spice flavours, vibrant and dense, and a vague hint of liquorice. Almost supercharged, it’s a memorable wine. (14% alc/vol) $125
Frenchmans Hill Estate Waiheke Island Advenus 2015
★★★★★
This arresting, oak-influenced wine is strikingly energetic for an 8-year-old blend of sauvignon blanc (principally) and viognier. Powerful, with a fragrant, multi-faceted bouquet, it is weighty, with concentrated ripe, tropical fruit flavours, fresh acidity and impressive complexity. (14.4% alc/vol) $75
Passage Rock Reserve Waiheke Island Viognier 2022
★★★★★
This powerful wine was estate-grown and barrel-matured at Te Matuku Bay, on the south-east coast. Bright, light yellow/green, it is weighty, fleshy and sweet-fruited, with concentrated ripe stonefruit flavours, showing good complexity, and a savoury, smooth finish. Already drinking well, it should be at its best mid-2024+. (14.5% alc/vol) $50
Passage Rock Reserve Waiheke Island Syrah 2020
★★★★★
This label has long been a star on the wine-show circuit. Deeply coloured, fragrant and full-bodied, it is youthful, with concentrated, vibrant plum, red berry and spice flavours, a hint of liquorice, fresh acidity and ripe, supple tannins. A very elegant, savoury red, it’s well worth cellaring to 2025+. (14% alc/vol) $70
Wine of the week
Passage Rock Reserve Waiheke Island Cabernet Sauvignon 2020
★★★★★
This is an outstanding red. Deeply coloured and mouthfilling, it has concentrated, beautifully ripe, blackcurrant-like flavours, fine tannins and a lasting finish. It’s the sort of classy, long-lived wine that one enthusiast suggested they lie down with. (14% alc/vol) $85
