Talk of the Town: Kāeo residents reveal reasons they love their town

Eljon Fitzgerald holidayed in Kaeo many times with his wife before falling in love with the place and moving there. Photo / Jenny Ling

There are many small towns dotted around Northland’s vast, rolling countryside. Reporter Jenny Ling hits the road and finds residents keen to talk about their hometown and the reasons they love it. Today, it’s Kāeo.

There are a couple of things to keep in mind when talking to people who live in the small settlement of Kāeo, 25km north of Kerikeri.

One is they deem Whangaroa and its sparkling harbour and some of the beaches a bit further along, as part of the greater township, and another is the indisputable fact that Kāeo embodies the very spirit of volunteering — there is actually a welcome sign leading into Kāeo which reads ‘small town, big spirit’.

This is certainly true for Eljon Fitzgerald, one of the organisers of the popular Ironmahue duathlon event, which features a 1km swim and 10km run/walk in February.

The research consultant was also instrumental in getting a children’s playground installed in 2017 so kids could have somewhere to play.

One of Bill Hori’s favourite places is Te Ngaere Bay [pictured] along with Matauri Bay.

Fitzgerald moved to Kāeo in 2012 with his wife Frances Goulton, who is originally from the town.

“We holidayed in Kāeo many times and fell in love with the place,” he said.

“It’s a friendly town; the natural environment is just beautiful, and the fishing is great, too.”

Fitzgerald’s favourite place is Mahinepua, particularly the Mahinepua Peninsula track, which snakes along the peninsula ridgetop and provides breathtaking coastal views.

“It’s a beautiful vista that you get around every corner. There’s native bush down to the pristine coastline.”

Fitzgerald also loves a dip in the community pool at Whangaroa College in Kāeo which, unbeknown to many outsiders, is open to the public.

Eljon Fitzgerald was instrumental in getting a playground installed so local kids could have somewhere to play. Photo / Jenny Ling

“I love the little things, like the playground is great for the kids, and the bowling club is great for friendship and social interaction with the locals — and it’s fun,” Fitzgerald said.

“One of the really heartwarming things is the coming together of the community for the Kāeo Christmas parade.

“It’s a wonderful coming together of the community and neighbours catching up with each other ... the whole town marches down the street with the parade to the college grounds.”

According to Te Ara, the town is named after the kaeo, a freshwater shellfish found in the river.

It was the site of Wesley-Dale, New Zealand’s first Wesleyan Mission station, established by Samuel Leigh and William White in 1823 and later abandoned after a raid by warriors of Ngāpuhi chief Hongi Hika.

These days Kāeo is renowned for flooding when the river bursts its banks during heavy rains, and for its ‘jandal fence’ which became even more famous when supermodel Rachel Hunter left her jandals there in 2017.

It also boasts a Four Square, chemist, museum, library, petrol station, laundromat and second-hand clothing store.

Of the handful of local eateries on Leigh St, Spice Grill is celebrated for its great Indian food, while the Old Saddlery Cafe is known for making the best fish and chips.

Bill Hori, pictured outside Madhatters Donna's Cafe, says Kaeo is a vibrant community surrounded by natural beauty. Photo / Jenny Ling

The Northern Advocate was delighted to find Madhatters Donna’s Cafe was having a special, where you could get a small flat white coffee for just $3.

Bill Hori, of Ngāti Kauwau descent, spent 55 years living in Kāeo.

Though now retired and living in Kerikeri, the former farmer still refers to Kāeo as home.

He remembers Kāeo as a “very vibrant community”, full of people who know and care for each other.

“I can remember the Christmas parades when we were kids.

“They were huge affairs. The whole community got behind it.

“We had a lot more people here back then, especially Māori families. We used to have inter-marae competitions.”

Hori, a trustee of Te Touwai marae and a volunteer on the RSA committee, also loves the Whangaroa harbour.

Lane’s Cove is a popular spot for Bill Hori and Lorraine Goulton.

“It’s where my tupuna are — that’s home.

“It’s where all the kai is, right now the oysters are fat.

“I also like Matauri Bay and Te Ngaere Bay, and Puketi Forest.

“That’s significant [Puketi Forest] because the huge kauri trade that happened there.

“It was huge for Whangaroa in many ways, though not always good ways, either.”

Hori highlights Lane’s Cove, at the western end of Pekapeka Bay, also known as the Western Arm, in the Whangaroa Harbour as another top spot.

Long-time resident Lorraine Goulton also loves Lane’s Cove, along with St Paul’s Rock which provides spectacular views of the harbour.

“The view is to die for and the walk isn’t too hard.”

Goulton grew up in Kāeo, left when she was 17, and spent most of her working life in Wellington and Hamilton, before returning some 30 years ago.

Lorraine Goulton is known for her volunteering and baking talents.

“I just love being back,” she said.

“I love being involved with my marae.

“It’s home.

“Sometimes we take for granted having people in our lives that we’ve known for a long time.”

The Pā community wellness centre, and Kauri Lodge residential care home, which are run by Whangaroa Health Services, both make Goulton’s long list of reasons she loves her town.

The Advocate also heard from a reliable source that Goulton epitomises the volunteer mentality of the town.

She once won a ‘Northland Volunteer of the Year award’, was part of the Kaeoannes community group, and is known as “the wonderful baker” at events and functions.

Fitzgerald said community spirit is alive and well in Kāeo.

“It’s a real struggle for a lot of people but regardless, people are always happy and they talk about positive things.

“They’re always happy to catch up.

“We help one another when there’s any problems.”

Jenny Ling is a news reporter and features writer for the Northern Advocate. She has a special interest in covering roading, lifestyle, business, and animal welfare issues.