Gwendolyn Needham writes and teaches healthy life-wisdom to inspire, motivate and empower society towards stemming the mental health crisis gripping New Zealand. She is a proud Northlander.
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Sentries silhouetted by the dawn sky at Ruapekapeka Pā during the 180th commemoration. Photo / RNZ, Peter de Graaf
Sentries silhouetted by the dawn sky at Ruapekapeka Pā during the 180th commemoration. Photo / RNZ, Peter de Graaf
On January 11, very early, I drove northwards, alone, my two companions having cancelled. No problem – I love to travel alone. And the weather was spectacular.
Destination – Ruapekapeka Pā – The Bat’s Nest. The event – 180th Commemorations of the last long battle between English soldiers andMāori. After hard fighting the chief said to Governor Grey: “If you have had enough, I have had enough. But if you have not had enough, then I have not had enough either!”
Yes, 180 years ago, this loose truce became the final major battle of the Northern War.
This 2026 event attended by 1000 was a triumph of organisation, welcome, hospitality, family values, style, dignity, drama, music, action and delight. As guest and whaea, I was treated with warmth and aroha.
At 4am, the unveiling and blessing of 13 stunning ancestral pou. First was at the State Highway 1 turnoff into Ruapekapeka Rd. It is a wayfinder pou, pointing the way up the hill road a few kilometres to the famous pā site. Look out for it on your next trip north. It’s 10m tall, built on site by Arapeta Barber, and unforgettable. What skills!
Warriors lead the way to Ruapekapeka Pā. Photo / RNZ, Peter de Graaf
A fleet of 12 buses transported attendees to the pā site for the 5.30am unveiling of the other 12 pou, representing both Māori and English facts and acts of historical significance. Emotions ran high, and humble pride. Passing on history is of the essence for our country’s greater future together.
A walk up the pā brought us to further cultural riches. All wore their very best: flags, waiata, formal speeches uniting local leaders, politicians, Defence Force chiefs, and other dignitaries. Anglican Bishop Kito Pikaahu led the 7.30am traditional church service with verve and the usual touches of crowd-pleasing humour. Hatea Kapa Haka embodied the spirit of this celebration – expressive, joyous, strong, rich, connected, proud. The panoramic view over Northland is mind-boggling.
My conversations with various young dads told me: “Huhana Lyndon is the greatest organiser! Pita Tipene is a true leader! Our children need to know their history and roots. We belong together. We are enriched when you and I talk together ... We welcome you and your focus on family and social education as essential to our better New Zealand.”
Naturally, a sumptuous breakfast hākari continued with conversations. A young person graciously served my meal.
This geographical area is our family “place to stand” having bought our dairy farm in Towai in the 1960s. Arthur and I drove our cows up the dusty metalled hill every May to our runoff, overlooking Maromaku Valley.
In those years Towai had a daily train, Post Office with (human) telephone exchange, IGA store, busy garage, lively two-storey hotel with accommodation, Catholic and Anglican churches, A&P Hall, and school roll of 70. Farming families worked and played together. I started Brownies and Guides with adventures on Ruapekapeka Pā, taught piano to 12 youngsters, joined Garden Club, Fellowship, Women’s Division of Federated Farmers. Now only the Hall, Anglican St Michael’s, plus the fire brigade remain. Look down to the left if you’re not driving. The tavern is for sale.
The cultural riches of Waitangi Day celebrations have also been and gone. Well done, in style, Te Tai Tōkerau.
A liner brought American tourists to Whangārei this week, revelling in Town Basin attractions. I met some at Otuihau Falls, delighted to talk; high in praise for “wonderful New Zealand”.
