On The Up: Northland’s Terra and Sage retain prestigious Hats at Cuisine Good Food Awards

Terra restaurant in Paihia owners Marcus Berndt and Sarah Connor are one of two restaurants in Northland to have been hatted in the Cuisine Good Food Awards.

Two Northland restaurants have been recognised yet again for their outstanding food, service and overall offerings in the country’s prestigious Cuisine Good Food Awards.

Bay of Islands spots Terra restaurant and Sage at Paroa Bay Winery have each retained coveted Hats – New Zealand’s version of a Michelin star – in this year’s awards.

The pair were among 95 restaurants to receive a Hat, which were judged anonymously by a national panel of food experts.

Bay of Islands spot Sage at Paroa Bay Winery was described by judges as an “essential destination”.

“Drawing inspiration from the surrounding moana-to-whenua landscape, the team at Sage sources an impressive 80% of ingredients, sustainably, from local suppliers.”

They commended dishes such as the Ruakākā blue pāua, and the “glorious” Speckle Park eye fillet on a caramelised cauliflower purée with oyster mushrooms and estate greens.

“The restaurant’s commitment to showcasing Northland’s unique produce is evident in every dish crafted by executive chef Dan Fraser, a visionary dedicated to elevating the region’s culinary reputation.”

Daniel Fraser is head chef at Sage Restaurant and executive chef for the Lindis Group. Photo / The Lindis Group

Family-run Paihia restaurant Terra managed to retain their Hat for the third year in a row, a welcome relief for the owners who say they strive for consistency and excellence each day.

Partners Sarah Connor and Marcus Berndt said they watched the awards from home with their children.

Connor said it was a “huge accomplishment” to be Hatted in 2023, just a few years into running the business.

But three years later, it’s retaining the Hat that brought extra pressure.

“It would be disheartening if we lost one.”

Judges were wowed by the food on offer at Terra in Paihia. Photo / Ash Boyd

What she believed set them apart was their consistency.

“We are truly passionate about producing really good food and having really good service,” she said.

“We hope that when they [customers] go home, even weeks down the track, that they remember their experience. That’s our bottom line.”

Despite the accolade, this year had not been without its fair share of challenges, such as contending with the overall cost of food.

They made the most of cheaper ingredients where possible but still thought outside the box, she said.

Chef Berndt was skilled at making flavours “shine” even in the simplest dishes, Connor said.

The anonymous judges said a standout dish was their smoky leek risotto.

They also commended their signature dessert dish, a honey brulee.

“Their commitment to celebrating local ingredients and fostering a warm, intimate atmosphere makes this a true gem of the North.”

Connor said the ultimate goal would be to receive more hats, of which there are a total of three.

“It would be amazing to achieve that. At least we know we’re moving in the right direction,” she said.

According to the Cuisine website, the awarding of Hats was reserved for those “whose commitment to excellence, innovation and consistency” placed them “firmly” among the best in the world.

Brodie Stone covers crime and emergency for the Northern Advocate. She has spent most of her life in Whangārei and is passionate about delving into issues that matter to Northlanders and beyond.