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Home / Northern Advocate / Lifestyle

Tracks across the Alps

By Mike Yardley
Northern Advocate·
25 Apr, 2011 04:00 PM3 mins to read

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As surely as autumn heralds the wistful certainty of winter's imminence, a great way to perk up your spirits is to embrace some of the cooler months' finest offerings. And one of the best winter excursions is undoubtedly a train ride on the TranzAlpine.
Internationally hailed as one of the world's
great rail trips, the TranzAlpine pulls out of Christchurch every day at 8.15am, scuttling across the great pastoral chessboard of the Canterbury Plains, before beginning its ascent into the high country and across the mighty Southern Alps.
I recently jumped on board the daily excursion, sharing the journey with a carriage-load of overseas tourists. Like them, I oohed and aahed all the way from coast to coast. Your camera will get a serious workout with fairy-tale scenery unfurling before your eyes.
Be sure to take a snap of the panoramic Waimakariri Gorge, which marks the start of the grand alpine ascent across the South Island's vaulting spine. A panoply of untouched high country lakes punctuate the journey, before you stop briefly at Arthurs Pass.
Alight from the train and treat your lungs to one of nature's great offerings - pure, soothing, chilled alpine air. You may even encounter a cheeky kea.
Back on board and feeling refreshed, you'll then be whisked through one of the nation's finest engineering feats, the Otira Tunnel, before plunging into the lush and verdant rainforest of the West Coast.
The on-board commentary is free-flowing, informal and exceptionally enlightening, with an easy procession of stories and anecdotes about the history of the land, its ingenious development and its colourful characters.
But nothing can eclipse the pulling power of the ever-changing scenery. In the space of just four hours, the 233km rail journey glides you through an epic overview of the South Island's dramatic landscapes, in all of their contrasting glory. Shortly after midday, the train arrives at gritty Greymouth, the gateway to the West Coast.
The 90-minute layover gives you a chance to sample the legendary hospitality of the "Coasters" in a nearby pub, or take a stroll through the compact shopping centre. There are some exceptional arts and crafts stores, with a lot of emphasis placed on carvings made in West Coast greenstone, or pounamu.
If you are short on time, you can return to Christchurch on the 1.45pm departure - otherwise extend your stay on the West Coast to sample some of its great sights. Either way, a trip on the TranzAlpine will electrify you with a profound sense of appreciation for New Zealand's knock-out natural scenery.
TOP TIPS
The TranzAlpine departs daily from Christchurch and Greymouth, with flexible booking options, depending on your itinerary. www.tranzalpine.co.nz
Greymouth Train Station is a one-stop shop for all  your transport and sightseeing needs.  There are also rental car and shuttle services on hand to assist you.
The International Antarctic Centre is a smash-hit attraction with the whole family. For full details on ticket prices and opening hours go to www.iceberg.co.nz

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