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Home / Northern Advocate / Lifestyle

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By Mike Yardley
Northern Advocate·
14 Nov, 2010 03:00 PM3 mins to read

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Doubtful Sound is Fiordland's second-most visited sound, although it is far more peaceful than its showbiz brother, Milford. Doubtful is also three times longer, and 10 times bigger.
From Te Anau, the first port of call is the neighbouring Lake Manapouri, just a 20km hop away. A day excursion to Doubtful
Sound begins with a leisurely cruise across to the West Arm of Manapouri, which is where the power station is located.
Most day trips include a memorable side trip down the underground tunnel into the bowels of the station's inner sanctum, where you can view the machine room which controls the turbines. This controversial hydro-power scheme was built principally to supply power to the aluminium smelter at Bluff.
The scheme's impact on Manapouri's lake levels gave rise to wide-scale environmental protests. In fact, Lake Manapouri was the birthplace of New Zealand's environmental consciousness.
From West Arm, day-trippers then board a coach which transports them through the Wilmot Pass to Deep Cove, Doubtful Sound. This twisting alpine road was constructed 40 years ago so that heavy machinery could be transported from Deep Cove to build the power station. Despite the environmental fallout, there is no question that the entire Manapouri project would have to be rated as one of New Zealand's engineering triumphs.
Wilmot Pass enables visitors to see the sublime beauty of New Zealand's ancient rainforest close up. From Wilmot Pass, visitors alight at Deep Cove to embark on a wilderness cruise through the tranquil beauty of Doubtful Sound.
After passing through the deep waters of the fiord, which are boxed in by towering, vertical walls of rock, Doubtful Sound empties out into the turbulent Tasman Sea. One of the real thrills of the excursion is the passing parade of wildlife. Don't be surprised to see playful dolphins and graceful petrels shadowing the boat. Out in the Tasman, vast hordes of fur seals park up on the rocks, like docile layabouts waiting for their welfare cheque.
Our sightseeing cruise also had a planned rendezvous with a DoC patrol ship, as the cruise boat was delivering supplies and mail to the DoC staff who live a primitive existence whilst protecting endangered species on Doubtful Sound's sanctuary islands. The full-day excursion returns travellers to Lake Manapouri from Doubtful Sound, in reverse order to how their day began.
Overnight cruises to Dusky Sound, which is even more remote than Doubtful Sound, are available. The award-winning Real Journeys is Fiordland's longest-established tour company, and details on its excursions are available online at www.realjourneys.co.nz
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Te Anau is the ideal base for Fiordland holidaymakers. The Lakefront Lodge is my highly
recommended accommodation provider. Overlooking the tranquil waters of Lake Te Anau,
these  upmarket  studio units have well-appointed, beautifully furnished rooms. There are fully equipped  kitchens  in all units, including  plunger coffee-makers.
You can contact the Lakefront Lodge on www.lakefrontlodgeteanau.com

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