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Home / Northern Advocate / Lifestyle

Postcard express

By Mike Yardley
Northern Advocate·
1 Sep, 2010 04:00 PM3 mins to read

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The blaze of early spring blossoms and unfurling bulbs signals the optimum time to jump aboard New Zealand's most lauded of rail excursions, the TranzAlpine.
Internationally billed as one of the world's great train rides, the TranzAlpine pulls out of Christchurch every day at 8.15am, hustling across the great pastoral patchwork
of the Canterbury Plains, before beginning its ascent into the high country and across the Southern Alps.
I recently boarded the daily excursion, sharing the scenic journey with a carriage-load of overseas tourists. Like them, I oohed and aahed all the way from coast to coast. Your camera will get a serious workout, with postcard-perfect scenery unfurling before you, as if it was on a conveyer belt.
Be sure to take a snap of the panoramic Waimakariri Gorge which marks the start of the grand alpine ascent across the South Island's vaulting spine. A spree of pristine high country lakes appear before you before you get a brief stop at Arthur's Pass. Alight from the train and treat your lungs to one of nature's great offerings - pure, soothing alpine air, chilled to precision. You might even be lucky enough to score a chance encounter with a cheeky kea.
Back on board, and feeling deliciously re-energised, you'll then be whisked through one of the nation's greatest engineering feats, the Otira Tunnel, before plunging into the lush and verdant rainforest of the West Coast. September and October traditionally offer the greatest servings of snow-clad scenery.
The commentary is free-flowing, informal and exceptionally enlightening, with a plethora of stories and anecdotes about the history of the land, its ingenious development and many of the colourful characters along the way. The staff are a shining example of tourism ambassadors at their finest.
But nothing can eclipse the pulling power of the ever-changing scenery. In the space of just four hours, the 233km-long rail journey glides you through an epic overview of the South Island's dramatic landscapes, in all of their contrasting glory.
Shortly after midday, the train arrives in gritty Greymouth; gateway to the West Coast. The 90-minute layover gives you a chance to sample the legendary hospitality of the "Coasters" in a nearby pub, or take a stroll through the compact shopping centre. There are some exceptional arts and crafts stores, with huge emphasis placed on West Coast greenstone, or pounamu. If you are short on time, you can return to Christchurch on the 1.45pm departure, or extend your stay on the West Coast to sample some of its great sights. Either way, a trip on the TranzAlpine will imbue you with a much greater appreciation of New Zealand's outstanding natural beauty.
Top tips
The TranzAlpine departs daily from Christchurch and Greymouth, with flexibe booking options, depending on your itinerary. www.tranzalpine.co.nz
Greymouth Train Station is a one-stop-shop for all of your transport and sightseeing needs, with a welter of rental car and shuttle firms, on hand to assist you.
If you wish to overnight it at Punakaiki, the award-winning Punakaiki Scenic Resort is a splendid establishment with a variety of restaurants and bars. Your accommodation choices include traditional resort suites or their new eco-units, which have set the benchmark for environmentally friendly design.
www.punakaiki-resort.co.nz

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