Pearl in the crown

The USS Arizona Memorial is probably the most compelling of all Hawaii's historic sites. It's not only a memorial to the 1177 who died in the most cataclysmic moment of the Pearl Harbour attack - the sinking of the Arizona - it also honours all the others who perished on that day in 1941 when Japanese planes bombarded the US Navy and forces on the island.
I had felt a little guilty that on our first visit to Hawaii three years ago we had skipped visiting the memorial, so this time the Arizona was top priority and first stop on our route.
There is free entry to the memorial and it is hugely popular, so even if you arrive early you can expect to wait a couple of hours before getting on one of the timed trips. Arrive too late and you run the risk of missing out for that day altogether.
We thought we had done well in getting to the Arizona and Pearl Harbour Memorial base at 8.15am, yet we still had to wait more than three hours for our memorial crossing. Two ferries cross the harbour to the memorial, with one leaving every 15 minutes.
The memorial structure spans the mid-portion of the sunken battleship and consists of three main sections: the entry and assembly rooms; a central area designed for ceremonies and general observation; and the shrine room, where the names of those killed on the Arizona are engraved on a marble wall. I stepped aboard the memorial expecting the wreckage and plaques to have my mind drawn back to December 7, 1941. And it was, until I reached the memorial's marble wall.
What caught my attention was at the bottom left corner - an inscription for Ens AR Schubert and dated 2010. I hadn't known that crew members who were survivors of the sinking could have their remains interred in the wreck.
Apparently, Anthony Schubert also knew nothing of the National Park Service's way of honouring Arizona's survivors. He died on August 12 last year, aged 90, and it was only after his family became aware of the internments that the decision was made by his next of kin to make the Arizona his final resting place - with a canister of his ashes placed in the ship's gun turret by naval divers after a short ceremony.
Ensign Schubert was the 32nd sailor to be interred in this manner, the latest addition to the proud list dedicated to the bottom corner of the shrine wall. Even though it is a privilege only extended to Arizona crew, it's a great way of honouring all those who survived the attack. Many, like Anthony Schubert, were both casualties and heroes. He suffered a cut to his head and burns to his hands and arms, yet did his best to help get others to safety before seeking attention for himself.
The impressive thing about the Arizona Memorial is the modest way it honours Ensign Schubert and his crewmates. It's a serene and respectful setting.
There are no big LCD screens showing war footage and no blaring music. There is definitely nothing for sale on the memorial pontoon.
All the commercial aspects of the memorial are shoreside at the Pacific Historic Parks visitors' centre. Here you will find the ticketing office, a bookstore with an array of literature and memorabilia, cafes and toilets. This is also where you connect with tours to the operation's two other main attractions - the Battleship Missouri Memorial and the Pacific Aviation Museum.
The wait for the memorial tour gave us enough time to visit the Missouri, a veteran of three major wars and now retired to Pearl Harbour's famous battleship row. It was my second visit to the Missouri and I was glad that I joined one of the ship tours. Our young guide, VJ, did a great job of telling the story of what was the last of the United States' battleships.
The Missouri, which served in World War II, the Korean war and the first Iraq war, is most famous as the site of the Empire of Japan's surrender in 1945, which marked the end of World War II. VJ took us around the deck plaque marking the spot where the surrender declaration was signed by representatives of the Japanese and the Allies, including New Zealand's Air Vice Marshall Leonard M Isitt.
Our guide explained how the Canadian representative had made things difficult for those signing after him, including Isitt, by signing in the wrong place. VJ recounted the scene that day, September 2, 1945, saying how the Allies supreme commander, General of the Army Douglas MacArthur, had insisted only the tallest of the Missouri crew be on deck to greet the Japanese.
The guided tour took about 35 minutes and concentrated on the main decks. We then spent about 20 minutes having a look through the inside. As you walk through the ship you realise that these were floating fighting machines, with only the most basic of fitments for its crew.
Once finished with "Mighty Mo" we headed back to the visitor centre, giving ourselves enough time to watch a 40-minute movie recounting the Pearl Harbour attack.
The visitor centre area is undergoing extensions and is much improved on when we visited three years ago. It is adjacent to the USS Bowfin Submarine Museum and Park, which features a World War II submarine that is open for public tours.
There is no shortage of things to do at Pearl Harbour and it would be easy to fill a day there. A couple of tips, though. No bags are allowed at any of the attractions, there are lockers you can pay for but it is probably easier to endeavour to travel light. And if you are planning to have lunch there, the Laniakea Cafe at the aviation museum looked the pick of the eateries. Also, if you are going to do the Missouri tour make sure you take a bottle of water and a hat - the deck of the ship is a suntrap.
So having filled the morning at Pearl Harbour, it was time to head north for the next stage of our day trip - the North Shore, famous for the Bansai Pipeline. We took the Kamehameha Highway bound for the laid-back little town of Haleiwa. There's not a lot to this spot but it does have several great places to get fruit smoothies or coffees in a small shopping centre. Surfing shops tend to dominate, there is a place called Oceans in Glass which is well worth a look - it sells amazing glass figures, all with sea creature themes.
With traffic mounting we decided to press on after a quick stop at Haleiwa, planning to reach Turtle Bay for a late lunch. Our route took us through Waimea Bay, another famed surfing location. At this point we had intended to make a diversion inland to Waimea Falls - which by all accounts is very beautiful. Unfortunately, we then encountered the North Shore's biggest hazard, something scarier than the pipeline - traffic delays. It almost seems to be a local joke that there are always some sort of roadworks going on that will slow you down.
Ask someone how long it will take you to get from Waikiki to the North Shore and the answer will be it "should take under an hour to Haleiwa and about another 15-20 minutes to Sunset Beach". The truth is you are likely to hit delays that will perhaps double listed travelling times. The reason is that the road is bordered in parts by rock cliffs prone to slips. It doesn't take much to cause a delay and the roadworks that kept us at a snail's pace for half-an-hour amounted to two men and a small patch of one lane. But you're not travelling big distances so go with the flow and look forward to seeing beautiful Sunset Beach, with crystal-clear water allowing you a glimpse of the lava-rock ocean floor.
We headed to Turtle Bay for lunch, a great spot to take the family. The lagoon, part of a major resort complex, is sheltered and is great for snorkelling and swimming. There is plenty of parking and full facilities - including rest rooms and a beachside grille for meals and drinks. We had a late lunch and felt very at home to see Steinlager Pure on the drinks list. After filling our stomachs and soaking up some sun it was time to complete the journey back to Waikiki. As we continued round the island on the Kamehameha Highway, my perception of Oahu began to change as it gradually became similar to its Hawaiian island cousins, the mountain ranges becoming bolder, greener and more rugged. Going this way you head back to Honolulu, cutting across the island using the John Burns Highway and tunnel.
Having spent an enjoyable afternoon gazing at the North Shore scenery it seemed a bit weird to so quickly be back in big city Honolulu.
It had been a day of history, scenery and relaxing.
That's the beauty of Hawaii - it's easy to make the most of all of those things.
TRAVEL TIPS

DRIVING:
A New Zealand driver's licence is fine for driving in Hawaii, but you must have it with you. The roads in Hawaii are generally good, though there are mountain areas where extreme care is needed. The usual rule applies as for driving on the right-hand side of the road - when taking turns it's loose lefts and tight rights.

RENTING A VEHICLE:
The rental rates are reasonable, ranging from US$40-60 a day. However, adding insurance can ramp up the cost, sometimes doubling the rate. A good tip is to thoroughly check your travel insurance before heading away - it could be that your travel insurance includes things that the rental car company is advising you to get cover for.
Air New Zealand operates two direct services from Auckland to Honolulu between November and April, and three services a week during the northern summer period June to October. Economy fares start from $1,618 return. For airfares and holiday packages visit www.airnz.co.nz
For more information on Hawaii try www.gohawaii.com