Jan Bilton: 4 amazing Christmas cake recipes

Rich fruit cakes - like good wine - improve with age.

Christmas cake is an English tradition that began as oatmeal plum porridge served on Christmas Eve to fill people's stomachs after a day of fasting. Later, dried fruit, flavourings and honey were added. That, in turn, morphed into the Christmas pudding we know today.

In the 16th century, oatmeal was removed from the recipe. Butter, wheat flour and eggs were added to hold the mixture together, plus exotic Eastern spices for festive flavour. Anyone wealthy enough to own a proper oven, baked their cakes. Otherwise the cakes were boiled.

Rich fruit cakes - like good wine - improve with age. They're best baked at least one month before enjoying so the flavours mellow and the texture compacts, making the cake easier to cut.

Recipes developed by New Zealand home economists or food consultants use New Zealand standard metric measuring spoons and cups. Our metric tablespoon holds 15ml; the Australian standard metric tablespoon 20ml.

The difference may not matter when there is one tablespoon of sugar needed. However, if a tablespoon of baking powder is required then the recipe's balance would be out of kilter if the Australian tablespoon was used.

Level measurements are also important. A heaped instead of a level cup of flour would alter the texture, colour and cooking time.

To measure dry ingredients in a cup, spoon them lightly into the required level. With a spoon, gently remove any excess by lifting it off the surface towards the mark indicated on the cup. Hold the cup at eye level to ensure the measurement is correct or put the cup on the bench and bend so your eye is level with the mark.

To measure dry ingredients in spoons, fill to overflowing then level it by running the straight edge of a knife over the top of the spoon.

Do not pack ingredients down unless this is stated in the recipe.

Recipes

Gluten-free coconut oil festive cake

• 1/2 cup Heilala virgin coconut oil
• 5 Tbsp creamed honey
• 3/4 cup apple sauce
• 1 cup each: craisins, sultanas, chopped dried apricots, pitted prunes, pitted dates
• 3 large eggs, well beaten
• 1 & 1/4 cups gluten-free baking mix
• Finely grated rind 2 oranges, 2 lemons

1. Preheat oven to 160C. Line base and sides of a 23cm springform cake pan with baking paper.

2. Melt coconut oil and honey in a large saucepan. Add apple sauce and dried fruit and stir well. Cook on low for 2 minutes, stirring often.

3. Remove from heat and add the other ingredients. Mix well. Pour into pan and smooth top.

4. Bake for about 1 hour or until a skewer inserted in centre comes out clean. Cool on a wire rack. Wrap in foil and store in a cool place.

Raw Christmas cake

• Fruit Mix: 3/4 cup mixed dried fruits eg craisins, chopped apricots, sultanas
• 1/4 cup orange juice
• 3/4 cup chopped walnuts
• Cake: 3/4 cup each: almonds (with skins), cashew nuts
• 1 cup long thread coconut
• 3/4 cup (packed) pitted dates, chopped
• 1 Tbsp each: finely grated orange rind, lemon rind
• 2 Tbsp each: lemon juice, honey
• 1 tsp finely grated root ginger

1. Combine fruit mix ingredients in a bowl. Cover and stand for 1-2 hours. Lightly oil an 18cm round cake pan. Line base with baking paper.

2. Place almonds, cashew nuts and coconut in a food processor. Whizz until very fine. Place in a bowl.

3. Place dates, citrus rinds, lemon juice, honey and root ginger in food processor. Mix until well blended. Return dry ingredients to food processor and mix until a dough forms. Press into prepared pan. Chill for at least an hour. To serve, cut into thin slices.

Mincemeat Christmas cake

• 1 Tbsp baking powder
• 400g Christmas mincemeat
• 1 cup softly packed brown sugar
• 150g butter, softened
• 1 cup mixed dried fruits
• 50g flaked almonds
• Finely grated rind 1 lemon
• 3 eggs, beaten
• Topping: 1/4 cup each chopped mixed peel, flaked almonds
• 1/2 cup brandy

1. Preheat oven to 160C. Lightly grease a deep 20-23cm cake pan and line with two or three layers of baking paper.

2. Sift flour and baking powder into a large bowl. Add remaining cake ingredients. Beat with an electric beater or wooden spoon until well mixed.

3. Spoon evenly into cake pan and level surface with a wet hand. Sprinkle peel and flaked almonds over the top.

4. Bake for 1 & 1/2 hours or until a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean. Cover with baking paper if top begins to brown too much. Sprinkle with brandy and cool in tin for at least 30 minutes. Turn on to a cake rack to finish cooling. Wrap in foil and store in a cool place.

Rich Chrissy cake

• 3/4 cup each: demerara sugar, rice bran oil
• 3 eggs, lightly beaten
• Finely grated rind 1 orange
• 1/4 cup each: orange juice, raspberry jam
• 1 & 1/2 cups high-grade flour
• 1 tsp each: ground mixed spice, cinnamon
• 750g mixed dried fruit
• 125g dried banana slices, coarsely crushed

1. Preheat oven to 150C. Line a 20cm square cake pan with baking paper, ensuring paper is 3cm higher that rim of pan.

2. Beat sugar and oil until well mixed. Beat in eggs, orange rind, orange juice and jam.

3. Sift in flour and spices. Add dried fruit and banana slices and mix.

4. Spoon into prepared pan. Smooth top with a wet hand. Bake for 1 & 1/2 hours or until a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean.

5. If top of cake looks a little brown towards end of cooking, cover loosely with a sheet of baking paper, ensuring it is supported by the paper lining the sides.

6. When cool, wrap in foil and store in a cool place.