Culture of couture

There are certain moments in life that tear through the fabric of the everyday and resonate as perpetual memories of something special.
For me, the passionate expression of an appreciative audience recognising superlative talent with an unrestrained collective cry of "Bravo", "Bravissimo", "Well done" is one of those moments.
Such was the response to the triptych ballet performance, Trittico Novecento, which I enjoyed recently at La Scala Opera House in Milan.
It evoked memories of a similar shout of approbation at the moving portrayal of The Phantom of the Opera in London.
There is something inspiring and even life-altering about a visit to northern Italy. Every human activity is pursued with passion and panache by the success-orientated "glass half-full" locals. Fashion, food, finance, football and fine furniture are the phonetically harmonious features of the bustling city of Milan, Italy's economic powerhouse.
Setting out from the very elegant, centrally located Hotel de Ville, I begin to wander the streets at will.
It soon becomes evident that Milan is a city of contrasts: Roman ruins exist beside ultra-modern glass towers, haute-couture fashion struts the sidewalks along with skinny hipster jeans, high culture at La Scala exists alongside grassroots street soccer inspired by AC Milan. I pass palazzos and piazzas, and power-walkers and pampered pomeranians pass me in the avenues and alleyways.
June is the most temperate month in Italy and this day is like a diamond that sparkles. My simple, unexpected encounters with local people show them to be warm-hearted and welcoming.
As the morning advances, the milling crowds gravitate towards cafes and trattorias and the aroma of espresso fills the air and mingles with the bouquet of piquant sauces from busy kitchens.
Every living soul appears to be clutching a flip-open cellphone, which they expect will ring at any moment. Immaculately dressed bella donnas hold the phone before them as if they are sending out a sonar beam. Others have it permanently clamped on their ear like a fashion accessory.
The gadget appears to be a mandatory aspect of the dress code, enabling the wearer to be in constant touch with the entire known world while patently ignoring passersby.
The passion and romance that enthrals audiences at La Scala spills out into the streets and I cannot fail to notice that kissing in public is something of an endurance sport, where after marathon sessions, no clear winner emerges. Any cafe, park or fountain can seemingly become the stage for a grand contest of romantic stamina.
One couple is locked at the lips in a passionate embrace as I enter a cafe. When I leave, they still present themselves to the world at large as an inseparable entity.
It has been an enjoyable morning rubbing shoulders with the Milanese, absorbing their lifestyle, art, architecture, cuisine and fashion, and I have to say I'm impressed. Visiting Milan is tantamount to taking a post-graduate course on appreciating the finer things of life.
The one exception is the traffic, which at first sight seems diabolical.
But there's an underlying rationale that may escape the notice of the Kiwi driver.
The pace is frantic, the manoeuvres erratic and signalling deemed an unnecessary impediment, but there is a surprising degree of courtesy, patience and tolerance in a motorist's psyche that prevents the seemingly inevitable collisions.
The ubiquitous scooters and motorbikes do what they do best; swerving in and out of the traffic with reckless abandon as if it's a hilarious game of cat and mouse. They drive on the right here, so I do a lot of head-swivelling to ensure that I don't become directly involved in the game.
I dodge one buzzing swarm of vespas (vespa is the Italian word for wasp) and do a double-take when I see the zippiest scooter is ridden by an Audrey Hepburn-lookalike straight out of Roman Holiday, exemplifying the height of cool.
Midday arrives and the city's pace slows noticeably to allow for the luxury of a long lunch and a siesta.
I meet up with my tour hosts, Susan and John of Etruscan Pleasures (Italia), a New Zealand company that specialises in boutique tours of Italy, Portugal and Croatia.
We are dining at the very fine Trattoria Bagutta, where the antipasto selection occupies a 6m-long counter. I succumb to the proverbial "when in Rome" philosophy and sample the antipasto, along with a main of grilled swordfish and a gelato dessert, accompanied by a superb Barbaresco wine.
I'm learning to eat the Italian way - to start in a disciplined manner by nibbling a mere taste of antipasto, then proceeding slowly with a small bowl of pasta followed by a main course of meat or fish - with a glass of wine always at hand.
The country that brought the world "la dolce vita" has made an art form of eating, drinking and merry-making, but they do it in a civilised, leisurely "slow-food" way. People buy fresh produce daily, prepare it with great care, gather the extended family around the table and turn the meal into an enjoyable feast.
Food has a cultural worth far beyond its calorific value and it underpins the whole concept of "the good life".
Local tourist guide Lorenza has organised our afternoon activity, a walking tour of the main city highlights.
It begins under the great, glass-vaulted dome of the Gallerie Vittorio Emanuele, a vast shopping and dining arcade replete with luxury fashion boutiques, cafes and restaurants.
I draw a sharp breath of astonishment as we leave the gallery and gaze in wonder at the exceptionally large and elaborate Duomo, the Gothic cathedral, glistening in pristine marble whiteness. This magnificent array of carved stone spires, soaring stained-glass windows and countless statues of saints rising ever higher into the sky took five centuries to complete.
The Duomo's crowning gilt copper statue of Our Lady was decreed the highest edifice permitted until the 1958 Pirelli Building was erected. With the coming 2015 World Fair, some twenty-seven 100m-plus buildings are in the planning phase.
Lorenza leads us into the elegant Via Montenapoleone, the most important street in the Milan fashion district, where many well-known designers have boutiques. We gaze longingly at sparkling window displays featuring brands such as Armani, Bulgari, Versace, Gucci, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana.
Leather goods are outstanding and it's a real retail challenge to visit Milan and resist purchasing a stylish jacket.
The window displays act like a magnet and, once inside, the sales pitch is especially inventive. I'm told that my chosen jacket is not just a perfect fit; it makes me so handsome that every Italian girl will ask me to buy her a drink. I desperately want to believe that I'm a modern Latin Lothario, but instead I resume my mantle of ordinariness and ask for a discount.
As the city materialises before us on the tour, we experience its shapes and colours, twists and turns, highs and lows.
The patina of faded ochre walls, the crazing of old stucco, the paving stones and cobbles worn smooth by passing traffic - it's a classic Italian tableau vivant, embracing antiquity and modernity, elegance and austerity, siren sounds and sweet serenity.
I love the city, the food, the vino, the energy and passion. Above all, I'm pleased that the warm-hearted Milanese seem happy to see me as a tourist. I just need to keep a firm hold on my credit card.
On this short visit, I have experienced the finer things of life in the unique Italian way and I will do my best to carry the passion and panache home with me.
If you ever hear a shout of "Bravo Milano" or "Grazzie Mille Italia" in downtown Auckland, you'll know I've succeeded.
FACT FILE
Etruscan Pleasures Italia specialises in guided and individual tours of Italy, Portugal and Croatia for discerning travellers who wish to experience all aspects of the local culture.
Cathay Pacific flies four times a week from Auckland to Milan, via Hong Kong, as well as offering a daily connection to Rome.

WEBSITES
www.cathaypacific.com
www.travelitalyinstyle.com
www.delavillemilano.com