landscape view: Picturesque outlook over Cromwell valley and vineyards from the historic Bannockburn Hotel (est.1862). Picture by Jo Ferris
It must be declared straight away. The word “wimp” has catapulted to higher status in my vernacular. Because, while I am about to extol the wonders of South Island’s latest cycle trail around Lake Dunstan, I didn’t actually do it. That said, feeble excuses do involve several deterring aspects.
Having just completed Queenstown’s Around the Mountains four-day ride — brilliant, by the way — the road trip to Cromwell ended in almost gale-force winds. It was the first sign of impending doubt. After all, the Lake Dunstan trail does navigate a steep rockface with drops of several hundred metres in places to the water below. Having ridden the Roxburgh Gorge a couple of years back, this latest prospect didn’t exactly ring any bells.
Bells, as it turns out, are useful, given the Dunstan Trail is dual carriage. The 42km track between Cromwell and Clyde can be ridden either way. If cycling from Cromwell to Clyde, this means sticking to the left, or, to be more precise, alongside an open drop to the river. The only fenced parts are unique cantilevered board sections hanging high above the water below.
Ram-rodded into sheer rockface, they’re a jaw-dropping achievement — like most of this trail. Since the trail opened last May, cyclists have taken to it like a duck to water — despite reports of accidents and a rogue ram with a penchant for charging cyclists. He has since been disposed of — mercifully — for bikers, that is.
The Lake Dunstan trail is the first section of a 170km project developed by the Central Otago Queenstown Trail Network Trust, destined to connect Clyde and Cromwell, with Roxburgh, Queenstown and Wanaka. It represents significant effort in raising funds, generosity of landowners, iwi and the sheer graft of those who actually devised and achieved the technical logistics of its construction.
The trail is mostly grade 2-3, though the actual surface is smooth. Winding around the Cairnmuir mountains through Cromwell Gorge, the track narrows in places to 1.5m, blind corners and a total climb of 580m, with the steepest switchback being 125m. That prospect alone was among the niggles that kept pinpricking any enthusiasm. Combined with thoughts of wind, let alone rain — despite encouraging comments from a group next door in the motel who biked the trail both ways — the jury was out.
We had hoped to check the hire bikes the night before. Unable to make that visit, we dutifully arrived early next morning at Cromwell’s Heritage Precinct to CHP Bike Rentals. A new venture for owner, Rod Llevant, he built the crack e-bikes himself — lovingly referring to them as “his babies”. That, and the fact he kept repeating one needed to be a confident cyclist, heightened growing doubts. A couple of final aspects stopped two of our foursome tackling the ride. Apart from two step-through bikes — quickly designated for our eager beavers — the rest all had crossbars. Being accustomed only to step-through e-bikes, the prospect of a bar between the legs, camera slung around the neck for action shot did little for the confidence.
Had we been able to practise — without being invaded by a peloton of seasoned mountain bikers bent on distracting Rod from assisting us — we could have completed the ride’s early stages, an easy doddle around the lake up to Bannockburn.
Needless to say, the other two fearless women breezed the entire trail and were exhilarated with their effort. They did admit to a couple of sneaky parts — meeting others coming the other way on narrow sections and blind corners. Nothing that detracted from this remote area’s spectacular scenery, however.
Two other features enhance this trail’s appeal. The floating café is a special stop-off — coffee, treats and burgers are a unique aspect. Hugo bridge, an 85m suspension bridge, named to honour the late construction businessman Hugh Green – is another logistical marvel.
Finishing at Clyde Heritage Precinct, past Clyde Dam, this trail delves into the past. Forgoing the bike ride, my friend and I could really explore Cromwell’s history. The heritage precinct deserves close attention, given its buildings pay tribute to Cromwell’s main street, before most of it was submerged in what is now Lake Dunstan.
Part of the late Sir Robert Muldoon’s “think big” vision in the late ‘70s-early ‘80s — and highly controversial at the time — the Clyde Dam and creation of Lake Dunstan took from 1982 and 1993 to complete. To truly appreciate it a visit to Cromwell Museum is a must. Old TV news clips, featuring the likes of Angela D’Audney and Richard Long, stir memories of the times, along with a fast-action presentation of Lake Dunstan forming.
Cromwell is fascinating. Famous now for its Highlands Motorsport Park, built by entrepreneur Tony Quinn, the township has attracted the likes of former Gisborne couple Roger and Wendy Driver. This central Otago area, rich in award-winning wineries, vineyards, orchards and fine eateries like the historic Bannockburn Hotel, is definitely worth a visit — even if cycling Lake Dunstan’s trail isn’t on the cards. It can be walked — something to ponder another time, perhaps? Or at least biking it the other way!
MORE:
Where to Stay:
Central Gateway Motel,
Cromwell
Bike Hire:
Cromwell Heritage Precinct Bike Rentals
Where to Eat:
Cromwell Heritage Precinct eateries
Bannockburn Hotel