"It was pretty heavy. There was endless white wash pouring in. I kept trying to find an easier spot to get out but it was a bit rippy so I spent the whole time paddling ... It was just heaps of duck diving."
Ms Daly said she would try and head back out to surf again on the weekend but would avoid busy surfing spots.
"When it's big, chaotic and crowded, it's dangerous because there are boards flying everywhere, people bailing. Sometimes there are people out there who shouldn't be because of their ability."
The 42-year-old has been surfing consistently at the Mount for the past five years and only saw this size swell once or twice a year in the Bay.
Along the coast yesterday, Tay St beach was rated a nine in surf quality by Metservice, which meant good quality surf, long swell period, little or no wind and swell height greater than a metre.
The sea temperature was recorded at 20C while swell was 2.7m. Further down the beach surf was 2.5m at Papamoa while Pukehina and Matakana Island had swell as big as 3.2m.
One surfer got into trouble in the surf yesterday at Mount Main Beach after his leg rope snapped and his board was ripped away from him. A friend, who was surfing nearby, swam over to help him back to shore.
Photo/Andrew Warner
Allan Mundy, Lifesaving Services and Education manager, said they had postponed a junior event because of the surf size.
"It's a good indication it's [the surf] big, especially for little people. We strongly advise any families who come down to the beach to swim between the flags. That's going to be critical this weekend."
Mr Mundy said people had to be aware when the surf was as big as it was, the rips would be big too.
"We have massive sets coming through so it often catches people out. One minute they are in waist deep water and a set will come in and all of a sudden, the depth of the water will be over their head. That is when they get sucked out to sea."
Mr Mundy advised people to swim well within their depths and between the flags. "It's going to be critical for safety."
Mount Maunganui clubhouse manager Glenn Bradley said large surf would be coming into all the Bay beaches this weekend.
"It's certainly one of the biggest swells in any given year. What's interesting with this one is we are looking at seeing prolonged surf coming through. We are expecting the surf to hold right through to at least Tuesday next week before it starts to back off."
Surf was anticipated to grow bigger than 2m with conditions only suitable for advanced and expert surfers, he said.
Mr Bradley said beach goers were swimming yesterday but staying in very shallow patrolled areas.
"A lot of water is moving around with these large waves; it tends to sweep along the beach and move out in rips. People need to be wary of that."
With the big swells, big rips would come too, he said.
"Quick forming, quick moving and changing [rips]. It is a weekend to be very conservative. Swim between the flags, stay nice and shallow," he said.
If people were swimming after lifeguards had gone home and there was an incident they should call 111 immediately and lifeguards would be notified and respond.
