Bay of Plenty Times
  • Bay of Plenty Times home
  • Latest news
  • Business
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Property
  • Sport
  • Video
  • Death notices
  • Classifieds

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • On The Up
  • Business
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Property
    • All Property
    • Residential property listings
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology
  • Sport

Locations

  • Coromandel & Hauraki
  • Katikati
  • Tauranga
  • Mount Maunganui
  • Pāpāmoa
  • Te Puke
  • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua

Media

  • Video
  • Photo galleries
  • Today's Paper - E-Editions
  • Photo sales
  • Classifieds

Weather

  • Thames
  • Tauranga
  • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Bay of Plenty Times / Lifestyle

Travel, Mike Yardley: A taste of France in Akaroa

By Mike Yardley
NZME. regionals·
17 Nov, 2020 08:47 PM4 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  Sign in here

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save

    Share this article

Akaroa Harbour at its tranquil best.

Akaroa Harbour at its tranquil best.

WEND YOUR WAY through the crumpled hills of Banks Peninsula from Christchurch to Akaroa.

It's a bucolically breathtaking drive, which I lapped up under a Tiffany-blue morning sky, as the luminous greens of spring bathed the countryside.

Akaroa is a charismatic place of evocative colonial cottages with no shortage of layered history to unpeel.

Akaroa  boasts many cute  colonial cottages.
Akaroa boasts many cute colonial cottages.

But it's Akaroa's unmistakeable French influence that accentuates the seduction. Order up a Café au Lait and soak it up.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

In 1838, French whaling captain Jean-Francois Langlois made a down payment on 12,150 hectares of Banks Peninsula land, agreed to with 12 Ngai Tahu chiefs. In 1840, 64 French and German settlers arrived at Akaroa after enduring many months at sea, only to see the Union Jack flying on Green Point.

The village across the water.
The village across the water.

The British had arrived seven days earlier, under the watchful eye of HMS Britomart, after annexing the entire country under the Treaty of Waitangi. Despite their profound disappointment, the French settlers were allowed to stay on in Akaroa to live under British rule.

The Giant's House.
The Giant's House.

Insatiably popular and utterly mesmerising is a visit to The Giant's House. Art and garden fans are equally rewarded when encountering this 24 years-and-counting labour of love, conceived and crafted by Josie Martin.

Located at 68 Rue Balguerie, The Giant's House was named by a young girl looking up at it from the valley below, remarking it was so huge that it must be the house of a giant.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Built in 1880 by Akaroa's first BNZ bank manager, the manor house is a timbered delight, brimming with totara and kauri, plus a magnificent mahogany staircase imported from France. Josie has breathed new life into it. There was no developed garden when she purchased the property in the late 1990s.

The whimsical Giant's gardens.
The whimsical Giant's gardens.

When she began digging the dirt to design her garden, she unearthed shards of lovely old china, which she deployed when trying her hand at mosaicing the front steps of the house. The works are wondrous, whimsical, a seriously flamboyant and playful celebration of life. A grand fantasia.

As an avid traveller, actively involved in the fine arts for 40 years, Josie is constantly drawing on her global adventures for inspiration, as her garden continues to evolve, with the mosaiced theatre of art taking centre-stage in the parade of splendour. When I first clapped eyes on her wonderland, it struck me as Gaudi meets Disney. She calls it "the happiest garden on Earth."

Amid the slew of water-based options Akaroa offers, you'll definitely want to hop aboard Black Cat Cruises for their two-hour long nature cruise, on-board their luxury catamaran. Fully narrated, it's a magnificently scenic cruise, blending the abundance of marine wildlife encounters with the evocative history of Akaroa and the staggering rock formations that deeply carve the coastline and headland at the harbour entrance.

 Hector's dolphins put on a show.
Hector's dolphins put on a show.

Cathedral Cave is an exceptional example of a volcanic cave, 100 metres high, and layered with self-explanatory evidence of different volcanic eruptions. The cave was formed by a massive explosion of trapped gas that blew out from the encased lava, laying bare the lines and layers of each eruption throughout the ages.

Pock-marked with blowholes, the ocean breathes in and out with a thunderous roar.

Rest assured, the crater you are floating in is that of an extinct volcano, which last blew its top 6 million years ago.

 Akaroa Harbour at its tranquil best.
Akaroa Harbour at its tranquil best.

Nudging out of the harbour into the open sea, after admiring the gnarly Heads, the wildlife was ever-present. New Zealand fur seals sunbathed and bellowed from rocky platforms and sea stacks; little blue penguins scurried about in the water (at first glimpse you may mistake them for ducks); seabirds wheeled about in the breeze scanning the water for prey while a pod of frisky Hector's dolphins freely frolicked in the wake of the boat, playing to the cameras like seasoned performers.

The Scenery Nook,  considered  to be one  of the most dramatic sea cliffs in the world.
The Scenery Nook, considered to be one of the most dramatic sea cliffs in the world.

Before turning for home, we delved into the most spectacular rock formation of all, Scenery Nook. This volcanic amphitheatre is considered by geologists as one of the most dramatic sea cliffs in the world, a volcanic vent, throwing up a riot of fiery red colours in the basalt, lava and volcanic ash.

There's a sense of the otherworldly, of danger and the unfamiliar, in this compelling Martian-hued amphitheatre. It's an arresting crescendo to a captivating cruise on Akaroa Harbour with Black Cat Cruises.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

www.blackcat.co.nz

Save

    Share this article

Latest from Lifestyle

Bay of Plenty Times

Tauranga couple's 'amazing journey' to parenthood

20 Jun 05:00 PM
Lifestyle

What the inaugural Jetstar flight from Hamilton to Sydney was really like

16 Jun 08:16 PM
Bay of Plenty Times

'Quite fun': Hamish's quail egg business takes flight

16 Jun 12:09 AM

Kaibosh gets a clean-energy boost in the fight against food waste

sponsored
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from Lifestyle

Tauranga couple's 'amazing journey' to parenthood

Tauranga couple's 'amazing journey' to parenthood

20 Jun 05:00 PM

Anna Keogh and her husband Kyle were told they'd never conceive their own children.

What the inaugural Jetstar flight from Hamilton to Sydney was really like

What the inaugural Jetstar flight from Hamilton to Sydney was really like

16 Jun 08:16 PM
'Quite fun': Hamish's quail egg business takes flight

'Quite fun': Hamish's quail egg business takes flight

16 Jun 12:09 AM
Premium
Auckland ICU doctor's book exposes NZ health system crisis from the inside

Auckland ICU doctor's book exposes NZ health system crisis from the inside

14 Jun 08:00 PM
Engage and explore one of the most remote places on Earth in comfort and style
sponsored

Engage and explore one of the most remote places on Earth in comfort and style

NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • Bay of Plenty Times e-edition
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Subscribe to the Bay of Plenty Times
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northland Age
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Book your classified ad
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP