Restaurant Review: Cafe Versailles

On the menu: As you would expect all things Francais, done with style and flair. Under the guidance of award-winning chef Maurice Mourali, the traditional rich, creamy sauces are given a modern makeover and the seafood dishes updated with the addition of some clever flavour pairings. Top marks, too, for the addition of "light" main options, which at up to $10 less than their "normal-sized" counterparts are the perfect choice for those wanting to go the whole four courses.
I'll have: The brie and basil chicken cannelloni with gruyere and smoked bacon sauce? The Bengal pepper marinated twice-cooked crispy pork belly, red cabbage puree and caramelised apple? No, make it the eye fillet ($34). Served with fresh green salad, red potatoes and creamy mushroom sauce, it's medium rare as requested and a perfect example of the stylish, sophisticated food this place is known for.
He'll have: The salmon croquette entree ($16) followed by one of the specials rack of lamb. The entree is in front of us pronto. Plated with fresh grilled pineapple and salad greens, the croquettes are fishcakes with a bit of theatre, the subtle flavours given a boost by a citrus-y riesling and lime infused crayfish stock. After the speed at which the entree was delivered, we're hoping we're not in for a hurried main, but no; these guys cook to order and your meal will be ready when it's ready. The lamb sits alongside a bed of seasonal vegetables zucchini, carrot, broccoli, green beans and a pastry-wrapped pea puree. Marinated and then lightly manuka-smoked, the lamb (and there's enough for two) is again cooked perfectly. The pea puree balanced the richness of the meat well.
He also had: The Chocolate's (sic) Mousse, one of the restaurant's signature desserts. The red icing flower set in a swirl of chocolate sauce, had us a little concerned, but we needn't have worried.
The mousse itself was a delight, and considerably less rich than expected. Several triangles of dark chocolate set off the creamier base.
For the adventurous: One of the specials, perhaps chicken breast filled with confit of duck and pear, served with a pear, ginger and marjoram sauce or that pork belly.
Value for money: Okay, so $35 is getting up there, but when you get a meal and a night out as memorable as this, it's worth it. I'm going back for the terrine - a chunky slice of duck, chicken and bacon pate, served with a red onion and port jam and sun-dried tomato bread, for just $15.
To drink: Some very decent wines at very decent prices.
The staff were: On their toes, friendly and professional all at the same time.
Host Maurine is wonderfully, well, French, dishing out some delightful little anecdotes along with a large helping of flattery.
The buzz: It's packed tonight, with families, groups, and couples all enjoying a little bit of Paris in downtown Tauranga. There's live gypsy jazz on Thursday evenings.
The verdict: Justifies its "best of Tauranga" tag.
Where: 107 Grey St, Tauranga
Phone: 5711480
Hours: Mon-Sat 3.30pm til late.
Price range: Appetisers from $14; entrees from $12.50; mains $16 (light serving) to $35.50