Punch of a boxer in a ballgown

Yvonne Lorkin.

Mahana Clays and Gravels Nelson Riesling 2014, $30

Arriving in a slimline, classically Germanic blue-green bottle, this ultra-pure, intense lime and crabapple-scented riesling has a steely dry, lip smacking texture and a finely-tuned lengthy finish. Just the faintest seam of honeysuckle adds complexity and juiciness. Great drinking now but give it 2-3 years and it'll absolutely sing. www.mahana.co.nz

Saint Clair Pioneer Block 17 Plateau Merlot 2014, $33

Cleverly crafted by Matt Thomson and Hamish Clark from fruit grown in the Gimblett Gravels, this wine has deeply earthy aromas of chocolate, liquorice and cured meats. These soak through to the palate, lifting peppery spices, dark fruit and dried herb notes to the fore. Elegant but with serious punch, a bit like a kickboxer in a ballgown. www.saintclair.co.nz

Church Road Hawke's Bay Syrah 2013, $20

I really, really like this wine. It's not just its elegant aromas of peppercorn, plum, violet and red fruit freshly dusted with cocoa powder, or its buoyant acidity and ethereal texture or even its sandy, emery-like tannins with just the right amount of 'chew'. It's mainly that all that good stuff can be had for just $20. From supermarkets.