Jan Bilton: Flash in the pan is all venison needs (+recipes)

Chilli Venison Meatballs

I always remember the first time my mother cooked venison steaks.

For our family, it was a new meat to be enjoyed for its flavour, nutritional goodness, low cholesterol and low fat. It came freshly prepared from the Central Otago highlands and long cooking on high heat meant my mother killed it for a second time.

It was tough - like shoe leather.

Her second attempt was fantastic - two minutes each side then taken out to rest and a slosh of wine, mustard and plum jam into the pan to make a quick, tasty sauce.

Farmed venison became available during the 1980s but as much of it was exported, local prices fluctuated wildly. Today farmed venison is common in supermarket meat cabinets and the price is competitive with other red meats.

It has a milder flavour than wild venison - a perfect introduction for newcomers to the taste. Farmed venison is grass fed, although during the colder months the diet can be supplemented with hay or silage.

However, things evolve. Now wild venison - processed and aged at licensed premises - is available from supermarkets and butchers. It's great to have the choice. The cuts from the legs, saddle and loin are as tender as the farmed variety, and they have excellent flavour.

Remove any sinew or membrane before cooking. Because venison is lean, overcooking will cause the meat to become dry and tough. Do not cook past the medium-rare stage except when making casseroles. Stewing venison - as with stewing beef - requires long, low-temperature cooking. Have all accompaniments ready before cooking commences. If roasting, cook to an internal temperature of 57C and then remove from the oven, cover with foil and a towel and allow to rest 5-10 minutes before slicing.

RECIPES

CHILLI VENISON MEATBALLS

A family favourite - use less or more chilli according to taste.

Meatballs: 750g minced venison
1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs
1tsp mixed dried herbs
Salt and pepper to taste
1 egg, lightly beaten
2-3 tbsp cornflour

Sauce: 410g can tomato puree (we prefer Wattie's)
1 tbsp tomato paste
1/4 cup each: red wine, malt vinegar, water
2 tbsp brown sugar
1 bay leaf
1/4 tsp each: ground nutmeg, ginger
1 medium onion, sliced
1 long red chilli

Preheat oven to 180 C.
Combine all the ingredients for meatballs - except cornflour. Roll into 3-4cm balls. Dust with cornflour. Place in a single layer in a baking dish.

Whisk ingredients for sauce - except onion and chilli - until smooth. Add onion and chilli and bring to boil. Pour over meatballs.

Cover and bake for 1 hour or until cooked. Serves 6.

VENISON STEAKS WITH RASPBERRY SAUCE

Great served with creamy polenta.
Sauce: 1/2 cup raspberry jam, sieved
2 tbsp wine or water
2 tsp red wine vinegar
1 tsp cornflour mixed to a paste with a little water
1 cup frozen raspberries
Venison: 400g farmed venison medallions
2 tsp each: freshly ground black pepper, olive oil

To make sauce, heat jam with wine or water and red wine vinegar. Stir in cornflour paste until thickened. Add raspberries and heat through.

Tie medallions into neat shapes, if required. Sprinkle both sides with black pepper.
Heat oil in a heavy frying pan. Pan-fry medallions for about 3-4 minutes each side. The meat should still be pink in the centre. Remove medallions to a warm platter. Cover and rest for 4-5 minutes. Remove any ties.

Drizzle warm raspberry sauce over the steaks. Serves 3.

WILD VENISON STIR-FRY WITH TAMARIND CHUTNEY

I used Jenny's Medium Tamarind Chutney made on Waiheke Island and available at selected delis or www.jwennyskitchen.co.nz. Premium Game's wild venison stir-fry is melt-in-your mouth tender and is available online. www.game-meats.co.nz
2 each: garlic cloves, shallots, diced
400g fresh mixed seasonal vegetables eg yellow peppers, courgettes, beetroot, thinly sliced
400g wild venison stir-fry
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
2-3 tbsp olive oil
1/2-3/4 cup tamarind chutney

Prepare vegetables and place to one side. Pat venison dry. Season with black pepper.
Heat a heavy frying pan or wok on high. Add 1 tablespoon of oil, swirling it around the sides. Stir-fry vegetables in batches, until crisp tender. Place to one side.

Heat more oil in pan. Stir-fry venison in batches until seared but still a little pink. Do not overcook. Return vegetables to pan. Quickly stir in tamarind chutney. Serves 4.

ROAST VENISON WITH ITALIAN HERBS & RED WINE JUS

I doubled the recipe and cooked two roasts side by side for a dinner party. One was farmed venison and the other wild. Both were tender and delicious.

400g piece venison roast
1 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp Tuscan seasoning
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp extra olive oil for cooking
Red Wine Jus: 4 shallots, diced
4tbsp olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 sprig rosemary
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
2 cups each: red wine, good beef stock
2 tbsp each: flour, softened butter

Brush venison with oil. Sprinkle all over with Tuscan seasoning and black pepper. Place in an oven dish and refrigerate uncovered for at least 4 hours.

Meanwhile, prepare jus. Stir-fry the shallots in oil over high heat for about 2 minutes, until lightly browned. Season with salt, pepper, garlic and rosemary and heat through.

Add vinegar and cook until almost evaporated. Add wine and cook until reduced by two-thirds. Add stock and simmer until reduced by two-thirds again, to about 1 cup.

Remove garlic and rosemary. Cream flour and butter together then whisk into jus. Cook, stirring, until thickened. Makes 1 cup.

Preheat oven to 200C. Sear venison in a frying pan in extra oil until browned on all sides. Return to roasting dish. Roast for 20 minutes.

Remove from oven.

Cover with foil then a heavy towel. Rest for 10 minutes before slicing. Serve with jus. Serves 4.