Jan Bilton: Cheese please, it's the bee's knees (+recipes)

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This month, we celebrate New Zealand cheeses and, in particular, special cheeses such as gouda with fenugreek, a traditional Indian spice; cow and goat's milk blend brie; aged maasdam; and buffalo milk mozzarella.

Many of our speciality cheeses are created by boutique cheese producers located from Kaitaia to Invercargill. Some are available only from the "farm gate", some online, but increasingly supermarkets are showing remarkable interest in the more exotic varieties. Many will be holding in-store tastings and competitions during October, as will delis, speciality food stores and producers.

Recently, I was introduced to Massimo's Italian cheeses and mistakenly thought they were "made in Italy". But not so. They are made by an Italian, Massimo Lubisco, but with New Zealand milk at Dairy Flat north of Auckland. Provolone in its caciocavallo (tear drop) shape won silver and bronze medals in the New Zealand 2014 cheese awards held in March. Smoked or non smoked, spicy or sweet, they're finer than their Italian counterparts -- it must be the great New Zealand milk!

Provolone (pronounced pro-vo-LOH-nee) is often sliced on to pizzas but is also excellent grilled with meat or vegetables or in savoury breads and muffins or enjoyed "au naturel".

Over the Moon Dairy Company in the South Waikato town of Putaruru specialises in traditional and non-traditional cheeses using milk from cows, goats, sheep and buffalo and vegetarian rennet. They also provide cheese-making and training classes at a purpose-built school.

On Banks Peninsula, Barrys Bay hand-crafted cheeses are consistent medal winners. Their aged Maasdam won a gold medal in the 2014 Cheese Awards. Maasdam is a traditional semi-hard Dutch cheese with eyes (holes) and a creamy, sweet, buttery, nutty taste. Extremely moreish, Maasdam is a perfect fondue cheese: it melts well and is great on pizzas, casseroles or soups. However, it's also a delicious snacking cheese.

For more information on New Zealand Cheese Month events, check out cheeselovers.co.nz.

Recipes

Crab & Maasdam Pizza

• 1 prepared thin pizza base, about 28cm in diameter
• 4-5 Tbsp onion marmalade
• 100g (1 cup) grated Barrys Bay Maasdam cheese
• 170g can crab meat, well drained
• 6-8 sweet delight tomatoes, halved or quartered
• 2 spring onions, finely chopped
• 1 Tbsp olive oil
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Baby salad greens or herbs to garnish

1. Preheat the oven to 220C. Heat a pizza stone or heavy oven tray in the oven for 15 minutes.

2. Spread the pizza base with onion marmalade. Combine the cheese and crab meat then spread it over the marmalade. Arrange the tomatoes on top. Sprinkle with spring onions and pepper and drizzle with oil.

3. Bake for about 10 minutes or until the cheese has melted and the base is cooked. Garnish.

Fresh mozzarella, basil & tomato skewers

• 3 (125g) Clevedon Valley Buffalo milk bocconcini
• 3 medium tomatoes
• 12 medium basil leaves
• 2 cloves garlic
• Pinch salt
• 1/4 cup good extra virgin olive oil
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Cut each bocconcini into quarters. Quarter the tomatoes. Spear a basil leaf, a piece of bocconcini and a quarter of a tomato on a small skewer or cocktail stick. Place on a platter. Repeat until you have 12 skewers.

2. Using the flat blade of a heavy knife, crush the garlic and salt together to make a paste. Stir into the oil. Drizzle over the skewers. Dust with black pepper.

Fenugreek gouda-crusted scallops

• 12 scallops
• 2-3 Tbsp lemon juice
• 1/2 cup (50g) very finely grated Meyer Gouda cheese with fenugreek seeds
• 1/4 cup panko breadcrumbs

1. Preheat grill to high. Lightly oil a baking tray.

2. Drain scallops and toss in lemon juice. Combine the cheese and breadcrumbs on a plate. Coat each scallop with mixture and place on baking tray.

3. Place directly under the grill and cook for 3-4 minutes, until the cheese has melted and is golden and crusty. Serve as a starter or light meal with a salad and crusty bread on the side.

Baked brie with garlic noir

• 125g round Over the Moon cow and goat milk blend brie
• 2 large cloves garlic noir
• 2 Tbsp dukkah
• 2 tsp finely chopped rosemary
• Toasted croutons or crusty bread

1. Preheat the oven to 200C. Cut a wafer thin slice from the top of the brie. Mash the garlic and dot it over the cut surface.

2. Place in a small shallow oven dish. Bake for 10-15 minutes until the brie softens. Remove from the oven and dust with dukkah and rosemary. Spread on the croutons or crusty bread and enjoy.