Get away to Jumby Bay

This hippyish take on all-out Caribbean opulence seems to encapsulate this 300-acre private island. Jumby Island is about half an hour by limo and catamaran from Antigua's international airport, but it's a world apart. Bicycles and golf buggies are the mode of transport here and the only sound comes from the bold, little yellow finches. It's a friendly place, but it's not hard to spend an idyllic day without seeing a soul.
Relaunched in December with 28 new suites, a beachfront spa and an innovative menu designed by head chef Pablo Loza, the resort spreads out sympathetically along the island's west side. Jump on the bicycles that are left helpfully outside your room, and an exhilarating whiz along the coast takes you to Pasture Bay.
From June to November, the resort's conservation programme looks after the hawksbill turtles as they shuffle up the beach to lay their eggs. In March, however, my only company was a lone crab, three flying fish and the occasional blue pelican plunging into the shallows.

The rooms
Having experienced the outdoor bathrooms that are a hallmark of Jumby's unique, chilled-out decadence, the hotel's managing director had three installed in his own Antiguan home.
And alfresco bathing is a neat solution to the only problem you're likely to face here: how to be simultaneously outdoors in the sun and enjoy your vast, colonial-style suite. With a shower and bath out back, and a private plunge pool (complete with waterfall) on the terrace, overlooking the brochure-perfect beach, you could spend much of your time here underwater. All the rooms are elegantly designed, with air conditioning and/or fan, WiFi and a huge widescreen television - not that you're likely to use them much.
The food and drink
As well as the Estate House restaurant, which offers extravagant fare (truffle icecream, anyone?) in plush, 1830s, Spanish-colonial surroundings, December's relaunch has added beachside dining (a real sand-in-the-toes luxury) at the Verandah restaurant. You can also enjoy bistro food beside the infinity pool at the more casual Pool Grille. Casual, yes, but it's also pretty special eating grilled mahi mahi on a citrus salad when all that's between you and the blue ocean are a friendly gecko and a hummingbird sipping at the flowers.
The extras
If you can tear yourself away from your private waterfall, all manner of activities can be laid on. Hobie Cat sailing boats and snorkels are provided free of charge, as is the croquet set, the fitness centre, a 25m swimming pool and sunset cocktail cruises. Staff will even wake you to watch the turtles come ashore, in the egg-laying season. Treatments at the spa cost extra, but let's face it, who on Jumby really needs a stress-relieving massage? Golf, scuba diving, Pilates and professional tennis coaching can also be provided, at a cost.
The access
Children are welcome, though obviously well-enough entertained as to be almost invisible among the dunes, the waterfowl sanctuaries and the three miles of hiking trails that wind around the island. All the rooms and tracks are wheelchair accessible, and staff are on-hand to help guests on to the boat that runs to and from the island. Pets are not invited, although they probably wouldn't want to brave the pelicans.

The bill
For those travelling between May 1 and October 31, 2010, ITC Classics (01244 355 527, www.itcclassics.co.uk) offers seven nights for the price of six, from $7302 a person based on two sharing a Rondavel Room on an all-inclusive basis, along with return flights with British Airways from London Gatwick and private transfers - a saving of up to $1371 a person on the usual price.

The address

Jumby Bay, A Rosewood Resort, PO Box 243, St Johns, Antigua (00 1 268 462 6000, www.rosewoodhotels.com)