Winter is when we're reminded how some areas of the section can get boggy. But you don't have to stand for the mud. Take these practical steps, whether it's for a courtyard, a path to the clothesline or something more ambitious.
Step 1 - Excavate and remove the topsoil to about 150mm deep, or down to hard clay.
Step 2 - Set up string lines tied to stakes at either end of the area to be paved, at the height you want to pavers to sit at. Allow for a fall of at least 10mm per metre sloping towards a drainage point. Use a level to help.
Step 3 - Fill the excavated area with gap 20. Rake out and screed the area to about 60mm below the string line. Compact the base thoroughly.
Step 4 - In the concrete mixer, mix 5 parts gap 7 to 1 part cement with clean water, to a porridge-like consistency. Place pavers from a corner or along straight edge. My starting point was square off the corner of the garden shed.
Step 5 - Place each paver on a bed of concrete making sure the paver is supported on the outer edges and middle. The concrete should be able to spread out when the paver is tapped down with a rubber mallet to the string line heights. Check levels of pavers regularly.
Step 6 - After the full paving is laid, cut in pavers for the infills with a diamond blade on your angle grinder. Wait about 24 hours before walking on finished paving.
Step 7 - Mix 3 parts silica sand to 1 part cement with clean water to a toothpaste consistency. Fill joints a section at a time, making sure grout is fully compacted.
Step 8 - Clean up excess grout with a bucket of clean water and sponge. Rubber gloves handy here.
• Base course (gap 20 with lots of fines)
• 600x600 x 40mm pavers
• Gap 7 with lots of fines
• Silica sand
• Protective wear
• Concrete mixer
• Plate compactor
• Screed bar
• Rubber mallet
• Tape measure
• Stakes & string line
• Grinder with wet/dry diamond turbo blade
• Rubber gloves