Justin Newcombe constructing the stable door. Photo / Supplied
Justin Newcombe constructing the stable door. Photo / Supplied
Justin Newcombe creates a workshop entry that affords a view.
I've always wanted a big workshop with doors that open out on to a small patch of grass that lead on to a beach. If that happened I reckon I would probably build nothing but boats, which would not be a bad thing at all. But just because I don'thave such a thing at the moment doesn't mean I can't in some small way recreate my dream.
My workshop has spent the past three years with a tarpaulin as a door, but now it is time to get organised and build a proper door - one I can actually use. When the tarp isn't there I get a great view of my garden. In fact it's really beautiful at this time of the year and I am really looking forward to being able to catch the odd glimpse of it as I work. Because I am also keen to give my little workshop a bit of a flourish, I thought I would build some stable-type doors. These are the sort of doors you could use for a sleepout or even as a back door if you wanted to let the air in but keep the chooks out.
I spent a bit of time thinking about the best approach and this was crystalised after a conversation with my father-in-law who happens to be a cabinet maker/builder. The doors will be in four parts but I have made the whole thing as if it was one door and then divided it up. To save time I have used strap hinges instead of butt hinges. For an ordinary door these would look a little coarse, but for a rustic barn door they are just the ticket.
Install some flashing and a doorframe into the door cavity.
Step 2
Measure and calculate the size of your doors. My bottom set are 1.2m high which is a good leaning height, and the top ones around 750mm high.
Step 3
Measure and cut timber. I've used 150mm x 50mm timber which in retrospect is a little over-the-top but it looks great. You could go with 100 x 50mm, no trouble.
Step 4
Cut a halving joint at each end of each piece of timber. This is an overlapping joint and the easiest way to join the timbers while maintaining strength. I set my mitre saw to the depth of 25mm which is half the thickness of my timber. Set the saw up on a stand outside because of all the dust that will be produced.