Australia: Gazing into the jaws of life

Crocodiles in the water at Kakadu. Photo / Supplied

Even getting to West Alligator Head is an adventure. A rough 4WD road - the Waldak Irrmbal Track - leaves the Arnhem Highway just inside the World Heritage-listed Kakadu National Park. This area has limited access, as the track crosses the dark soils of the Wildman and West Alligator River flood plains, which remain saturated months after the end of the wet season (December to March).

The 81km drive into West Alligator takes you past two good camping spots on the Wildman River: Two Mile and Four Mile Waterholes, named for their length, not their distance from the turnoff.

But, frankly, once you've experienced the paradise ahead, you'll decide to stop at the waterholes for a spot of morning tea or a quick overnight camp only. Take care after the turnoff to Four Mile Waterhole, as the track becomes more narrow, winding and corrugated. Engage 4WD to tread lightly and to ensure you don't damage the track.

Additionally, decreasing your speed will ensure you don't flick up one of the many sticks on the edge of the track that can easily stake a tire or damage your undercarriage.

The track can become impassable after wet weather for months at a time, so be sure to keep one eye on the skies during your visit or you'll end up staying a lot longer than you'd planned.

As the track winds its way through the dry savannah woodlands for which the area is famous - and through various fire-scorched sections - you'll encounter groves of screw-top palms which, funnily enough, resemble giant screws - especially when the old foliage has been burnt from their tops.

Finally the woodlands yield to the flood plains of the local rivers and are replaced by tall grasses.

When this vegetation is burnt out by one of the many fires common to the area, it quickly sprouts anew, becoming as green as the grass on a well-watered suburban front lawn. This hints at the moisture that exists just a few centimetres below the surface. It's always a striking contrast between the charred and blackened remains of the burnt grass and the verdant green of new growth.

Once you cross the plains, you quickly find yourself driving along the edges of sand dunes towards the beach - once again surrounded by savanna woodlands.

Camping is only permitted in three areas at West Alligator Head, on a first-come first-served basis. The smallest area will accommodate only two vehicles and the largest some 30 or so.

The pick of the camping areas isn't Pocock Beach (a remote beach not even listed on any map), but a private, secluded beach on the eastern side of the headland. This site accommodates about five vehicles. The drive across the headland to the beach takes you through a monsoon forest in which kangaroos, wallabies, bush turkeys, other birdlife and flying foxes are plentiful.

Upon reaching this secluded cove, you'll find that the high-tide mark is so close to your campsite that you'll be able to cast a line to catch that barra or salmon and still be only a few metres from your esky, fireplace and sleeping bag. When you're beaching your boat, keep in mind that there's a huge difference between the high- and low-tide marks in this area, and once the tide retreats, all you're left with is soft mud.

From October to December is turtle nesting season; they use the beach dunes for nesting, so 4WDs aren't allowed on the sand except to launch boats. If you take your torch and you're careful, you just might find a nesting site. But remember that they're protected and easily frightened.

Something else to keep in mind is that these are crocodile-infested waters; sightings along the beach are common, including reports of a 4.5m croc in the area, so swimming is not recommended.

Birdlife abounds in this area, and its blue-winged kookaburras are particularly friendly. These cheeky devils have the ability to hold a hermit crab in their beaks, which they then smack on to a branch until the shell is broken. The unprotected crab then falls to the ground and the kookaburra swoops down to eat its meal.

If your visit happens to coincide with a rising full moon, you'll be treated to the spectacular scene of a huge, red, glowing orb lighting up your private cove and beach. The vibrant colours reflect from the ocean as though set on fire. Make sure you visit before this secret is out and paradise is lost.

CHECKLIST

Getting there: Qantas offers daily services to Darwin via Sydney and Brisbane. Kakadu National Park is located 170km southeast of Darwin on the Arnhem Highway. The track for Wild Alligator Head leaves the Arnhem Highway 2km inside the northwestern entrance to Kakadu National Park.

Survival tips: August to October is the best time to visit. Be sure to check if the track has re-opened following the end of the wet season. Plan ahead, carry a detailed map and follow all safety instructions to drive in the outback.

Camping is free and no permits are required as long as you camp within designated camp areas. Fires are allowed only in the cement rings provided.

Basic amenities are available in the main camping area at West Alligator Head but limited or none in the Pocock Beach, Two and Four Mile Waterhole areas.

Further information: For more about West Alligator Head and the surrounding area see
kakadu.com.au, deh.gov.au, territorydiscoveries.com and australiasoutback.com.

For general information about visiting Australia go to australia.com.